A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.Thoreau, Henry David
History
A Yankee in Canada, with Anti-slavery and reform papers.
Thoreau, Henry David
Brown, John, 1800-1859; Québec (Province) -- Description and travel; Slavery -- United States
Too much has not been said about the scenery of Quebec. The
fortifications of Cape Diamond are omnipresent. They preside, they frown
over the river and surrounding country. You travel ten, twenty, thirty
miles up or down the river’s banks, you ramble fifteen miles amid the
hills on either side, and then, when you have long since forgotten them,
perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the road or of your
body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky. The
child that is born and brought up thirty miles distant, and has never
travelled to the city, reads his country’s history, sees the level lines
of the citadel amid the cloud-built citadels in the western horizon, and
is told that that is Quebec. No wonder if Jacques Cartier’s pilot
exclaimed in Norman French, _Que bec!_—“What a beak!”—when he saw this
cape, as some suppose. Every modern traveller involuntarily uses a
similar expression. Particularly it is said that its sudden apparition
on turning Point Levi makes a memorable impression on him who arrives by
water. The view from Cape Diamond has been compared by European
travellers with the most remarkable views of a similar kind in Europe,
such as from Edinburgh Castle, Gibraltar, Cintra, and others, and
preferred by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views
which I have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified
city, and not from a solitary and majestic river cape alone that this
view is obtained. I associate the beauty of Quebec with the steel-like
and flashing air, which may be peculiar to that season of the year, in
which the blue flowers of the succory and some late golden-rods and
buttercups on the summit of Cape Diamond were almost my only
companions,—the former bluer than the heavens they faced. Yet even I
yielded in some degree to the influence of historical associations, and
found it hard to attend to the geology of Cape Diamond or the botany of
the Plains of Abraham. I still remember the harbor far beneath me,
sparkling like silver in the sun,—the answering highlands of Point Levi
on the southeast,—the frowning Cap Tourmente abruptly bounding the
seaward view far in the northeast,—the villages of Lorette and
Charlesbourg on the north,—and further west the distant Val Cartier,
sparkling with white cottages, hardly removed by distance through the
clear air,—not to mention a few blue mountains along the horizon in that
direction. You look out from the ramparts of the citadel beyond the
frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills, according to the
guide-book, forms “the portal of the wilds which are trodden only by the
feet of the Indian hunters as far as Hudson’s Bay.” It is but a few
years since Bouchette declared that the country ten leagues north of the
British capital of North America was as little known as the middle of
Africa. Thus the citadel under my feet, and all historical associations,
were swept away again by an influence from the wilds and from nature, as
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