Or, if he be merely an idler visiting Paris for the summer, he takes
Paris as an idler should, and she receives him with open arms. He
does not go there to spend four hours a day, or even four hours a
week, in the serious occupation of leaving visiting-cards. He does
not invite the same people with whom he dined two weeks before in New
York to dine and breakfast with him again in Paris, nor does he spend
every afternoon in a frock-coat watching polo, or in flannels playing
lawn-tennis on the Île de Puteaux. He has tennis and polo at home. Nor
did he go all the way to Paris to dance in little hot apartments, or to
spend the greater part of each day at the race-tracks of Longchamps or
Auteuil. The Americans who do these things in Paris are a strange and
incomprehensible class. Fortunately they do not form a large class, but
they do form a conspicuous one, and while it really does not concern
any one but themselves as to how they spend their time, it is a little
aggravating to have them spoiling the local color of a city for which
they have no real appreciation, and from which they get no more benefit
than they would have received had they remained at home in Newport.
They treat Paris as they would treat Narragansett Pier, only they act
with a little less restraint, and are very much more in evidence. They
are in their own environment and in the picture at the Pier or at
the Horse Show, and if you do not like it you are at perfect liberty
to keep out of it, and you will not be missed; but you do object to
have your view of the Arc de Triomphe cut in two by a coach-load of
them, or to have them swoop down upon D'Armenonville or Maxim's on the
boulevards, calling each other by their first names, and running from
table to table, and ordering the Hungarians to play "Daisy Bell," until
you begin to think you are in the hall of the Hotel Waldorf, and go out
into the night to hear French spoken, if only by a cabman.
I was on the back seat of a coach one morning in the Bois de Boulogne,
watching Howlett give a man a lesson in driving four horses at once.
It was very early, and the dew was still on the trees, and the great,
broad avenues were empty and sweet-smelling and green, and I exclaimed
on the beauty of Paris. "Beautiful?" echoed Howlett. "I should say it
was, sir. Now in London, sir, all the roads lie so straight there's
no practice driving there. But in Paris it's all turns and short
corners. It's the most beautiful city in the world." I thought it was
interesting to find a man so wrapped up in his chosen work that he
could see nothing in the French capital but the angles which made the
driving of four horses a matter of some skill. But what interest can
you take in those Americans who have been taught something else besides
driving, and who yet see only those things in Paris that are of quite
as little worth as the sharp turns of the street corners?
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account