Across the Plains, with Other Memories and EssaysStevenson, Robert Louis
General
Across the Plains, with Other Memories and Essays
Stevenson, Robert Louis
Essays; Monterey (Calif.) -- Description and travel; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
see Americans bound in the same chains with which they themselves had
formerly bound the Mexican. It seems as if certain sorts of follies,
like certain sorts of grain, were natural to the soil rather than to the
race that holds and tills it for the moment.
In the meantime, however, the Americans rule in Monterey County. The new
county seat, Salinas City, in the bald, corn-bearing plain under the
Gabelano Peak, is a town of a purely American character. The land is
held, for the most part, in those enormous tracts which are another
legacy of Mexican days, and form the present chief danger and disgrace of
California; and the holders are mostly of American or British birth. We
have here in England no idea of the troubles and inconveniences which
flow from the existence of these large landholders—land-thieves,
land-sharks, or land-grabbers, they are more commonly and plainly called.
Thus the townlands of Monterey are all in the hands of a single man. How
they came there is an obscure, vexatious question, and, rightly or
wrongly, the man is hated with a great hatred. His life has been
repeatedly in danger. Not very long ago, I was told, the stage was
stopped and examined three evenings in succession by disguised horsemen
thirsting for his blood. A certain house on the Salinas road, they say,
he always passes in his buggy at full speed, for the squatter sent him
warning long ago. But a year since he was publicly pointed out for death
by no less a man than Mr. Dennis Kearney. Kearney is a man too well
known in California, but a word of explanation is required for English
readers. Originally an Irish dray-man, he rose, by his command of bad
language, to almost dictatorial authority in the State; throned it there
for six months or so, his mouth full of oaths, gallowses, and
conflagrations; was first snuffed out last winter by Mr. Coleman, backed
by his San Francisco Vigilantes and three gatling guns; completed his own
ruin by throwing in his lot with the grotesque Green-backer party; and
had at last to be rescued by his old enemies, the police, out of the
hands of his rebellious followers. It was while he was at the top of his
fortune that Kearney visited Monterey with his battle-cry against Chinese
labour, the railroad monopolists, and the land-thieves; and his one
articulate counsel to the Montereyans was to “hang David Jacks.” Had the
town been American, in my private opinion, this would have been done
years ago. Land is a subject on which there is no jesting in the West,
and I have seen my friend the lawyer drive out of Monterey to adjust a
competition of titles with the face of a captain going into battle and
his Smith-and-Wesson convenient to his hand.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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