The host was borne aloft through the streets by the venerable Abate,
followed in solemn procession by his Greek basilians, carrying crosses,
banners, relics of saints and martyrs, smoking censers and lighted
tapers, which filled the air with perfume. They moved to the sound of a
low chant; and the whole population knelt bare-headed on each side, as
they passed. The Sicilian infantry formed a lane, with the ranks facing
inwards—the commanding officer kneeling in front, while the arms were
presented—the colours levelled to the dust, and the drums beat a march
on the flanks. Castelermo dismounted, and knelt on the pavement; but I,
like a heretical presbyterian, kept my saddle: yet the sour looks of the
watchful fathers softened when I uncovered my head; for I was well aware
that it would have been gross disrespect not to have done so, on an
occasion so solemn.
Turning our horses eastward to regain our lost ground, we passed through
the village of Jacurso, and the town of Francavilla, crossed the stream
of Angistola, and ascended towards Monteleone; whose castled height, and
groves of oak, burst at once upon our view, as we turned an angle of the
mountain path. At our feet spread the Tyrrhene sea, calmly rolling, and
stretching like a vast blue mirror from St. Eufemio to Castello di
Bivona; whilst its waves flashed golden in the sun, as they broke on the
distant promontory of Tropea—the Portus Hercules of the Romans. Further
westward, the dim but sunny horizon was streaked by the light smoke
ascending from the peak of Stromboli, nearly fifty miles distant.
Around us the country was like a beautiful garden: the maple, the
vallonia oak, the dark sepulchral cypress, the wild acacia, the towering
pine, the pistachio, the sweet-chestnut, and the walnut-trees, all
displayed their varying foliage on the lowlands; while the quivering
aspen and evergreen oleander waved their leafy branches from the sandy
rocks. Sheltered by graceful weeping-willows and lofty Judas’-trees,
little cottages peeped out on the green hill sides; whilst the ruddy
orange, the golden-apple, the pomegranate, the almond, the grape, and
the plum, were flourishing around in glorious luxuriance beneath the
warm light of an unclouded sun.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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