Alexandria: A History and a GuideForster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
History
Alexandria: A History and a Guide
Forster, E. M. (Edward Morgan)
Alexandria (Egypt) -- Guidebooks; Alexandria (Egypt) -- History
In 828 the Venetians, according to their own account, stole from
Alexandria the body of St. Mark, concealing it first in a tub of pickled
pork in order to repel the attentions of the Moslem officials on the
quay. The theft was a pardonable one, for the Arabs never seem to know
that it had been made; it occasioned much satisfaction in Venice and no
inconvenience in Alexandria. St. Mark procured, there was little to
attract the European world; the ports of Egypt were now Rosetta
(Bolbitiné Mouth of the Nile), and Damietta (Phatnitic Mouth); there was
no reason to approach Alexandria now that her water system had
collapsed. Towards the end of the Arab rule she did indeed regain some
slight importance; the Mameluke Sultan of Cairo, Kait Bey, built on the
ruins of the Pharos the fine fort that bears his name (1480). He built
it as a defence against the growing naval power of the Turks. The Turks
conquered Egypt in 1517, and a new but equally unimportant chapter in
the history of Alexandria begins.
ST. THEONAS: p. 170.
ATTARINE MOSQUE: p. 143.
MOSQUE OF THE PROPHET DANIEL: p. 104.
FRAGMENT OF ARAB WALL: p. 106, 155.
FORT KAIT BEY: p. 133.
THE TURKISH TOWN (16th-18th Cents.)
Under the Turks the population continued to shrink, so that eventually
the narrow enclosure of the Arab walls became too large. A new
settlement sprang up on the neck of land that had formed between the two
harbours. It still exists and is known as the “Turkish Town.” A
second-rate affair; little more than a strip of houses intermixed with
small mosques; a meagre copy of Rosetta, where the architecture of these
centuries can best be studied. So unimportant a place can have no
connected history. All that one can do is to quote the isolated comments
of a few travelers. (i) The English sailor, John Foxe, (1577) has a
lively tale to tell. He had been caught by the Turkish corsairs and
imprisoned with his mates. With the connivance of a friendly Spaniard he
organised a mutiny, recaptured his ship and in true British style worked
it out of the Eastern Harbour under the fire of the guns on Kait Bey.
(ii) John Sandys (1610) gives a quaint but impressive description of the
decay:—
Such was this Queen of Cities and Metropolis of Africa: who now hath
nothing left her but ruins; and those ill witnesses of his perished
beauties: declaring rather that towns as well as men have the ages
and destinies.... Sundry Mountains were raised of the ruins, by
Christians not to be mounted; lest they should take too exact a
survey of the city: in which are often found, (especially after a
shower) rich stones and medals engraven with the figure of their
Gods and men with such perfection of Art as these now cut seeme lame
to those and unlively counterfeits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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