Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
"At the corner or angle where the ledge terminated there was a
peculiar arrangement of rock which had resulted in the formation of a
small square hole with nothing but sky to be seen on the further side.
Under this hole there was a gap in the ledge of about three feet, with
a drop of about fifteen feet into a dark pit beneath. To cross the
gap it was necessary to lie down flat upon the ledge on the one side
with face to the rock, stretch your feet to the rock on the other,
your body thus spanning the gap, then draw yourself through the hole
and gradually swing yourself into an upright position by the help of
the rope and the handholds in the further wall of rock. It looked a
more trying operation than it actually was because one had to turn
somewhat sharply on emerging from the hole in order to stand on a
somewhat slender ledge. But there is practically no danger; when one
is firmly held on the rope by guides, whose caution and
resourcefulness, here as elsewhere, were admirable, and have fully
justified the confidence which I have always reposed in their ability.
"Having, with mutual assistance, all three surmounted this difficulty
and having advanced a little further down the side of the tower, we
perceived a way into the chimney already referred to, about sixty feet
above its base. Here it was obvious that the only way of getting down
was to rope off. Amongst other paraphernalia we had brought with us an
extra short piece of rope which would serve as a loop. It was now
slung around a firm piece of rock, which was rendered more adaptable
to the purpose by a little hammering, while through the loop was
passed a second rope about 120 feet long. This being doubled still
gave us the required length.
"I went down first, being held besides on another rope, so that no
serious mishap could have overtaken me. For the first forty feet there
were practically no footholds to be found, a fact for which we were
prepared; but fortunately the rock was good--indeed, this is the only
bit of firm rock on the mountain--and I got safely down and out of the
chimney, after swinging once or twice like a bundle of goods, without
any worse experience than having my clothing a little torn and with
the feeling that there might be a permanent groove around the centre
of my body.
"Fuez descended next and took a photograph of Aemmer sitting at the
top. As Aemmer was descending he disturbed a small stone which danced
down with great force and, to Fuez's chagrin, cut off about twenty
feet from the lower end of his fine manilla rope. We then pulled down
the rope, but of course, had to leave behind the loop, which may be
serviceable to some other party."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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