Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
One is tempted to repeat the story of the first successful ascent of
Mount Deltaform, described by Wilcox as the "most difficult mountain
yet ascended in the Canadian Rockies;" and of Wilcox's own climb up
Mount Temple, but both are readily accessible in the _Rockies of
Canada_. Some idea of the magnitude of the task of scaling Deltaform
may be got from the fact that an unusually strong climbing party
consisting of Professor H. C. Parker, Dr. A. Eggers, and the Swiss
guides Hans and Christian Kaufmann, were nearly twenty-two hours in
conquering the peak, "after a reconnaissance and repulse two days
before."
This sketch of mountain-climbing in the main range of the Canadian
Rockies, designed merely to give as far as possible in the words of
the actors, some idea of the experiences incident to this king of
sports, may close with an account of the first ascent of Crows Nest
Mountain, one of the most difficult climbs in the Southern Canadian
Rockies. P. D. McTavish tells the story in the _Canadian Alpine
Journal_, 1907.
In August, 1905, Mr. McTavish, with three friends, reached the base of
the mountain and after several attempts which ended in quite
impossible precipices, found a great crevice leading up about 400 feet
and "resembling the space left in a whole cheese when a thin
wedge-shaped piece has been removed." After resting for a time, they
climbed up to a dome of rock which had obstructed their view. "With
some difficulty we surmounted this, and found ourselves at the base of
a beautifully straight, but very perpendicular, chimney, about six
feet in width and two hundred feet high. This offered possibilities,
so we immediately proceeded to climb to the top. Arriving there, a
short shaly slope led to a similar chimney, up which we climbed. We
now found ourselves at the top of the first circular band which
begirts the mountain, and felt that victory was within our grasp.
"For some time we encountered a series of steep, rocky slopes and
perpendicular faces, which led to a long slope of about one thousand
feet, after which the climbing again became fairly difficult, but for
only a short time, as we had reached the final dome, and at 12.15
o'clock we stood upon the summit." The entire climb had occupied about
four hours.
[Illustration: THE ASSAULT. _Byron Harmon_]
[Illustration: VICTORY AT LAST. _Byron Harmon_]
[Illustration: THE MONARCH OF THE ROCKIES. (_From a painting by George
Horne Russell_) _Grand Trunk Pacific Railway Company_]
[Illustration: SNOW MUSHROOMS _Byron Harmon_]
[Illustration: ICICLES ON MOUNT ROBSON. (_50 feet long_)_George
Kinney_]
X
CLIMBING IN THE SELKIRKS
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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