Among the Canadian AlpsBurpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
History
Among the Canadian Alps
Burpee, Lawrence J. (Lawrence Johnstone)
Canadian Rockies (B.C. and Alta.)
We may return to Herr Sulzer for a moment to note a curious incident
that he mentions in connection with an expedition to a point west of
Mount Tupper. "Seated on the highest elevation," he says, "I began to
sketch a portion of the view, while black thunderclouds sailed towards
the ridge from the valley. Suddenly, two stone slabs next to me and
standing opposite each other begin to make a humming noise, the metal
holder of my sketching pencil buzzes and my pick begins to crackle
strongly, especially when I grasp it. Simultaneously, a slight rain
sets in and my fingers, also moistened by the rain, buzz. My companion
is taken by a sudden fright and is incapable of uttering a sound. The
cause of this phenomenon was clear to me at once, although I was not
fully aware of the degree of danger which it might include. We were in
an electric cloud. I remembered to have heard a few thunder reports a
short time before, issuing from the same cloud which had now reached
us. The main volume of electricity stored up in it had escaped by
lightning. The rest escaped when it reached the ridge, and to some
extent, we ourselves involuntarily acted as conductors to the earth. A
direct danger, therefore, was not present; for if the electric tension
had still been great enough to generate lightning flashes, such would
have been ejected before the clouds themselves touched the ridge.
Nevertheless, the phenomenon was so strong that when I touched the
pick on its metal mount, I felt a strong shock, and at night the play
of sparks would undoubtedly have been visible."
The Minute Book at Glacier House contains an account of the first
ascent of Mount Tupper, by Wolfgang Koehler, of Leipzig, in 1906. A
translation of the narrative appeared in the _Canadian Alpine
Journal_, 1909, from which the following is taken:
Koehler made the expedition with two Swiss guides, Edouard Fuez, Jr.,
and Gottfried Fuez. They walked from Glacier to Rogers Pass, and
climbed up the trail to a hut provided for mountain-climbers, where
they spent the night.
"The night was wonderfully beautiful, a cloudless sky and brilliant
moonlight. Moreover, to be surrounded by the dear, beautiful
mountains! How one's heart goes out to them! Towards 4 A. M. we got
up, breakfasted, and started off at 5 A. M. We took the direction at
first immediately behind the hut, then turned off to the right, and
across the little icy creek, looking up to Rogers, Swiss and Fleming
Peaks, Mount Tupper, Sifton and Grizzly. It was always up and then
down again. We had innumerable gullies and streams to cross, until we
reached the ridge at the end of two hours. We rested, and then started
again, always following the ridge over icy blocks."
So they made their way, with more or less difficulty, until they
reached a point where more serious problems confronted them. There
were several possible routes, all involving pretty stiff climbing. One
was finally selected as the most promising.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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