movement, and they answered that there was much wild writing in the
newspapers of a separate Arab assembly, and that words like these might
stir up trouble and revolt. “But where is unity? Aleppo hates Deir, and
Deir hates Damascus, and we have no Arab nation.” The financial
position, both public and private, they pronounced to be hopeless. “I
know a man,” said one, “who has land on the Euphrates that might be
worth £15,000 and is worth as many piastres. He dares not put money into
irrigation because he could not get protection against the tribes and
his capital would bring him no return. But indeed there is not enough
capital in all Deir to develop the land.” He complained that the best
land was chiflik, the private property of the Sultan, and this I mention
because it is a grievance that has already been remedied--may it be of
good omen! The conversation left me profoundly discouraged, there was so
much truth in all that I had heard, together with so complete an absence
of political initiative. Thus it is through all the Asiatic provinces,
and the further I went the more convinced did I become that European
Turkey is the head and brains of the empire, and that if the difficult
task of reform is to be carried out in Asia it can only be done from
western Turkey. I believe that this has been recognized in
Constantinople, for the provincial governors appointed under the new
régime have been almost invariably well chosen.
On March 6 we took the road again, still following the left bank of the
Euphrates. The country down these reaches of the river is, as Xenophon
says, exceptionally dull: “the ground was a plain as level as the sea.”
Below Deir the Euphrates has left its original channel and now runs
further to the west, and there was generally a stretch of low ground, an
older bed, between our road and the stream. This alluvial land is thinly
populated and partly irrigated by water-wheels. Along the higher ground,
which had once been the bank but is now touched only by the extreme
points of the river loops, there were occasional mounds representing the
villages of an earlier age. The baggage animals travelled in six and
three-quarter hours to Buseirah, which lies in the angle formed by the
Khâbûr and the Euphrates. The site is very ancient. Xenophon when he
arrived at the Araxes (the Khâbûr) found there a number of villages
stored with corn and wine, and the army rested for three days collecting
provisions. Diocletian made Circesium the frontier station of the Roman
empire. He fortified it with a wall, says Procopius, terminating at
either end on the Euphrates in a tower, but he did not protect the side
of the town along the Euphrates. The stream sapped one of the towers,
the walls were allowed to fall into decay, and Chosroes in his first
expedition had no difficulty in taking possession of the fortress.
Justinian repaired the ruined tower with large blocks of stone, built a
wall along the Euphrates, and added an outer wall to that which already
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