In the Arab village, which has sprung up near the south-west corner of
the ruins, there are portions of a large building which the natives call
the church. It is surrounded on three sides by a very thick wall,
roughly built of brick and rubble, with round towers at the angles.
Within the wall there are remains of a niched structure which, so far as
I could judge, consisted of two domed octagonal chambers. The masonry is
of brick and rubble, plastered over, and both this ruin and the outer
wall seem to have been built out of older materials pillaged from other
parts of the town and mixed indiscriminately together. Finally there is
a substructure of brick, octagonal in plan and covered by a much
flattened brick dome. The flattened dome is typically Mohammadan: I do
not remember any instance where it can be assigned with certainty to an
earlier period, and I am therefore led to the conclusion that the whole
building cannot be older than the time of the khalifs. The area of the
city is strewn with potsherds, by far the greater proportion being
unmistakably Arab and closely related to the coarser sorts of Raḳḳah
ware. Almost all the coins that were brought to me were Arab.
My tents were pitched outside the city wall, at the extreme limit of the
Roman empire, a frontier line which you must travel far to find. Did
Julian, with the ominous news from Gaul in his hand, feel any misgiving
when he ordered the building of the bridge over which his army was to
pass to the irrevocable destruction that Sallust predicted in his
letters? “No human power or virtue,” says Ammianus Marcellinus, “can
prevent that which is prescribed by Fate.” Impending disaster, long
since fallen, leapt again from his pages and stood spectral upon the
banks of the Khâbûr.
CHAPTER III
BUSEIRAH TO HÎT
_March 7--March 18_
At Buseirah we were confronted with one of the difficulties that awaits
the traveller in the Jezîreh. Since there is no traffic along the left
bank of the river, there are no zaptiehs to serve as escort; my two
zaptiehs from Deir were to have been relieved at Buseirah, but there was
only one available man there, and he feared the return journey alone,
and was therefore extremely reluctant to come with us. We solved the
question by carrying off Muṣṭafâ, one of the men from Deir, whereupon
Ḥmeidî, the Buseirah zaptieh, consented to bear him company. Both were
to return from Abu Kemâl, three days’ journey lower down. This plan
suited Ḥmeidî well, for he was a doubly married man, and while one of
his wives remained at Buseirah, the other dwelt at Abu Kemâl. His beat
was between the two places. “And so,” he explained, “I find a wife and
children to welcome me at either end.”
“That is very convenient,” said I.
“Yes,” he replied gravely.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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