“Are there many locusts here?” said I, for locusts are not accustomed to
lay their eggs in sand.
“No,” they answered, “there are none here; but, as God is exalted! there
are thousands lower down.”
“Then why do you plough here?” I asked, with the tiresome persistence of
the European.
“The government ordered it,” said they, and resumed their task.
In another hour we reached Tell ech Cha’bî (el Ka’bî?) where there is an
Arab cemetery, the graves covered with unglazed potsherds. Ḥmeidî told
me that when the Arabs bury their dead in such places they dig into the
mound and extract broken pottery to strew upon the graves; the Bedouin
use no pottery, their water-vessels being of copper or of skin. While we
sat upon the top of the tell lunching and waiting for the caravan, which
was delayed for nearly an hour in the loose sand, Ḥmeidî gave me his
views on politics.
“Effendim,” said he, “we do not care what sultan we have so long as he
is a just ruler. But as for ’Abdu’l Ḥamîd, he keeps three hundred women
in his palace, and, look you, they have eaten our money.” Wherein he
wronged the poor ladies; it was not they who scattered the revenues of
the State.
In thirty minutes we came to Tell Simbal, a small sandy mound; in one
hour and fifteen minutes more to Tell el Hajîn, with a village by the
river, and after another hour and twenty minutes to Tell Abu’l Ḥassan,
where we camped, seven and a quarter hours from Bustân. Abu’l Ḥassan is
marked in Chesney’s map as “mound.” It is a very striking tell rising
fifty feet above the river; upon the summit are Arab graves strewn with
coarse pottery and with undressed stones dug out of the hill, and for a
distance of a quarter of an hour’s walk to the north and east there are
fragments of brick upon the ground. The graves are those of the Jebbûr,
who, said Ḥmeidî, left this district thirty years ago and migrated to
the Tigris, where I subsequently saw them. Nearly all the Silmân have
also gone away, and though their camping grounds are marked by Kiepert
on the Euphrates, their present quarters are on the Khâbûr. The Deleim
and the Ageidât, a base-born tribe, together with the Bu Kemâl, now
occupy the Euphrates’ banks, and the ’Anazeh come down to the river in
the summer. There was no living thing near our camp except an enormous
pelican, who was floating contentedly on the broad bosom of the stream.
Our advent roused in him the profoundest interest, and as he floated he
cast backward glances at us, to see what we were doing in his
wilderness.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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