The Communal or Central Kitchen is established and run by experts for
the cooking of a large number of meals at the lowest possible cost. A
first-class plant is necessary, the most up-to-date ovens, steamers,
utensils of every kind. The cook must not only be an expert, but an
artist, as she has to disguise many inferior ingredients and make them
appetising for her consumers. Stores are purchased, wherever possible,
in large quantities, special permits, of course, being afforded by the
vigilant Food Administrators. Thus considerable saving is effected.
The cook and her immediate assistant or assistants are highly paid
workers, but those who apportion and handle the food, over the counters,
are volunteers, giving about four hours’ service every day.
No food is consumed on the premises. The customers bring their own
utensils in which they carry their portions away. There is a very
complete and clever system of tickets issued at a little box office near
the door, so that no money is tendered at the counter.
The menu cards are hung in the windows so that customers may make their
choice before they come inside.
We went early, watched the cooking in process, got stuffed up with
unheard-of knowledge of every kind, and then waited for the customers.
They interested me beyond everything; although it is a very poor
neighbourhood, it was not the very poor who came. Some quite well
dressed people, with baskets nicely covered and lined, appeared and were
more than satisfied. One bank clerk’s wife assured me that it was the
greatest Godsend to her, because she was working, too, and they were
both now assured of one good warm, substantial meal every day, and
nothing else mattered.
A mother of seven, "steps and stairs," clinging to her skirts had tears
in her eyes as she spoke of the salvation the Kitchen had brought to her
family.
When I saw the quarts of soup disappearing in jugs and pails through the
swing doors, I took fresh heart and decided to make another onslaught on
the Amazonian mother who would let her offspring "go without" instead of
"demeaning ’erself" to any truck with bones.
Have you ever noticed how a little thing can change the whole outlook;
how you can be transported by a lift of the brows, the glimpse of some
unexpected object, miles from your base?
As I sat there behind the counter of the Communal Kitchen in the
Westminster Bridge Road, I was suddenly transported to South Germany, to
that little Bavarian university town we both know so well. What do you
think transported me? Why, the sight of a student-like person, German,
surely, carrying the little arrangement of dishes in a stand (I’ve
forgotten its German name and glory in the lapse), which used to bring
my greasy dinner from the hotel Drei Mohren.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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