I will not pass the same censure, though I must pass some censure, upon that celebrated beverage coffee, which both hurts by the power of the warm water, and by irritating; for nature cannot use itself to irritation without suffering. It is however rendered powerful by a nutritious flour, and by a bitter and strengthening aromatic oil; so that it may well be laid up in apothecaries shops as an useful remedy, but is improperly used in kitchens as part of our daily food. It raises the spirits, eases the stomach when loaded with phlegm, cures the head-ach, causes a chearfulness of mind, and, if we may believe some people, increases its penetration; for which reason the learned are so fond of it. But was coffee used by HOMER, THUCIDIDES, PLATO, XENOPHON, LUCRETIUS, VIRGIL, OVID, HORACE, PETRONIUS, and the other great men of antiquity, who as much excelled us in genius, as we surpass them in experience and knowledge of nature. Warm liquors being therefore justly set aside, cold water should be used, which has as much power in strengthening as the former in weakening the body. Wine deserves its share of praise; but I have the same opinion concerning wine, with respect to the learned, that I have in regard to coffee, that it should be used as a remedy, and not as a drink. The Creator gave pure water as the universal drink, which he made a menstruum to all sorts of food, and agreeable to all palates: it should be chosen cold, soft, and mild; for it both strengthens and cleanses the viscera. Hence it has been generally looked upon as a panacea both by the Greeks and Romans, and it is the best of remedies when dryness prevails, or bile or acidity are in too great quantity[47]. Digestion will be more easy, sleep sweeter, the head seldomer clouded, and the strength greater, if, laying aside wine, we quench our thirst with pure water alone. Wine has one fault that renders it exceeding hurtful to the learned; it forces the blood into the brain, and increases the several disorders thereof, head-achs, megrim, and the like, which are hardly to be cured without laying aside the use of wine: all these disorders are wonderfully removed by drinking water, which prevents too great a quantity of blood from being gathered in the head. What wonder is it then if it increases the intellectual powers, and if those who drink water alone have a more tenacious memory, a more lively imagination, and quicker perceptions than others. The abstemiousness of DEMOSTHENES is a great example in favour of drinking water, which has likewise this virtue, it in a surprising manner subdues those catarrhs with which the learned are so often troubled, and which the use of wine is apt to increase. They have often acid eructations; but wine sharpens an acidity, water dulls it.