An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
We proceeded along the right bank of the river between reddish hills and
distant high snowy mountains to the north-west and east-south-east of
us, which we saw from time to time when the rain ceased and the sky
cleared. The momentary lifting of the clouds was ever followed by
another downpour. Marching became unpleasant and difficult, sinking, as
we were, deep in the mud. Toward evening we suddenly discovered some
hundred and fifty soldiers riding full gallop in pursuit of us along the
river valley. We pushed on, and having got out of their sight behind a
hill, we changed our course and rapidly climbed up to the top of the
hill range. My two men with the yaks concealed themselves on the other
side. I remained lying flat on the top of the hill, spying with my
telescope the movements of our pursuers. They rode unsuspectingly on,
the tinkling of their horse-bells sounding pleasant to the ear in that
deserted spot. Thinking that we had continued our way along the river,
they rode beyond the spot where we had left the path. Owing to their
haste to catch us up, they did not notice our tracks up the hillside.
Rain began to fall heavily again, and we remained encamped at 17,000
feet, with our loads ready for flight at any moment. The night was spent
none too comfortably. I sat up all night, rifle in hand, in case of a
surprise, and I was indeed glad when morning came. The rain had stopped,
but we were now enveloped in a white mist which chilled us. I was tired.
Chanden Sing was intrusted to keep a sharp watch while I tried to sleep.
"_Hazur, hazur, jaldi apka banduk!_" (Sir, sir, quick, your rifle!)
muttered my servant, rousing me. "Do you hear the sound of bells?"
The tinkling was quite plain. Our pursuers were approaching, evidently
in strong force. There was no time to be lost. To successfully evade
them appeared impossible. I decided to meet them rather than attempt
flight. Chanden Sing and I were armed with our rifles, Mansing with his
Gourkha knife. We awaited their arrival. There came out of the mist a
long procession of gray, phantom-like figures, each one leading a pony.
The advance-guard stopped from time to time to examine the ground;
having discovered our footprints only partially washed away by the rain,
they were following them up. Seeing us at last on the top of the hill,
they halted. There was a commotion among them. They held an excited
consultation. Some of them unslung their matchlocks, others drew their
swords, while we sat on a rock above and watched them attentively.
After hesitating a little, four officers signalled to us that they
wished to approach.
"You are a great king," shouted one at the top of his voice, "and we
want to lay these presents at your feet." He pointed to some small bags
which the other three men were carrying. "_Gelbo! Chakzal! Chakzal!_"
(We salute you, king!)
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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