=Type 1=, which may be compared with Type 1 for sole butts, is a tannage
of about 5 months. The goods pass through suspenders (8°-30°) in 2-1/2
weeks, and then pass to the handlers (30°-50°), in which they remain a
month; they are then put into suspension again and pass through the
suspender handlers (40°-55°), which takes 2-1/2 weeks. In this round
much gambier is added, and the goods are frequently handled. Four layers
are usually given, viz. first layer 55°, one week; second layer 60°, two
weeks; third layer 65°, four weeks; and fourth layer 75°, four weeks.
The tannage is thus 20 weeks, of which 11 weeks (55 per cent.) are in
layers. Extra layers may be given to heavier goods, using stronger
liquors made up with extract. All liquors work straight down the yard.
The tannage consists of 35 per cent. myrabs, 35 per cent. valonia, 10
per cent. Natal bark, and 20 per cent. extract, chiefly gambier, though
some chestnut and quebracho are used.
=Type 2= represents the modern tendency to use stronger liquors and a
shorter time. The strap butts pass through the suspenders (22°-50°) in
1-1/2 weeks, during about a third of which time they are rocked. They
next pass through two sets of suspender-handlers (50°-67° and 67°-80°),
which takes a month, and thence to the layers. Three layers are given
(85°, 90° and 100°), in which the goods remain one, three and four weeks
respectively. The tannage is thus 13-1/2 weeks, of which 8 weeks (nearly
60 per cent.) are in layers. The liquors work down the yard. Longer time
may be given to heavier goods. The tannage consists of 40 per cent.
myrabs, 35 per cent. valonia or Natal bark, and 25 per cent. extract,
chiefly chestnut, though some gambier may be added to the suspenders.
However tanned, strap butts are first dried out rough over poles. This
assists in making the tannage permanent, on account of secondary changes
discussed in Section III. They are next wet back for currying by
soaking in water or sumach liquor for a few hours and piling to become
soft and even. The first operation is "skiving," which is a light
shaving on the flesh side, carried out by a sharp slicker with a turned
edge. The butts are next scoured thoroughly by machine on both flesh and
grain, and sumached in a vat for several hours at 100° F., after which
they are slicked out and hung up in a cool shed to samm for stuffing.
Hand stuffing is often still preferred, with tallow and cod oil. The
butts are next set out, and it is important that this should be
thoroughly done. Machines are now generally used, and the goods are
often reset after further drying. After drying out completely they are
given a light coating of tallow and laid away till wanted for cutting up
into straps, which is now done by machinery.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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