I was amused with the handbill, stuck up against the walls of this inn,
or hotel, as it is called; announcing it to be the largest, the
completest, the most magnificent, with a thousand et caeteras, in the
universe; and recounting not only its numerous accommodations, but the
multifarious trades which it contained within its own walls; to all
which was added a playhouse. A playhouse it is true there was, but no
players; and as for trades, there were at least as many as we wanted.
Sir Arthur took over his own carriage; otherwise this first of inns in
the universe would not have furnished him with one, but on condition of
its being purchased.
Sir Arthur observed it was strange that the French innkeepers should
not yet have discovered it to be their interest to keep carriages for
travellers, as in England. To which Frank Henley shrewdly answered,
that the book of post roads, in his hand, informed him government was
in reality every where the inn-keeper; and reserved to itself the
profits of posting. And the deepest thinkers, added Frank, inform us
that every thing in which governments interfere is spoiled. I remarked
to him that this principle would lead us a great way. Yes, said he, but
not too far: and, playing upon my words, added, it would lead us back
to the right way, from which we appear at present to have strayed, into
the very labyrinth of folly and blunders.
Frank is earnestly studious of the effects of governments, and laws;
and reads the authors who have written best on such subjects with great
attention, and pleasure. He and Sir Arthur by no means agree, in
politics; and Sir Arthur has two or three times been half affronted,
that a man so young and so inferior to himself, as he supposes Frank to
be, should venture to be of a different opinion, and dispute with him;
who was once in his life too a member of parliament. I am obliged now
and then slily to remind him of the highwayman and Turnham Green.
And now, Louisa, traveller like, could I regale you with a melancholy
narrative, relating how the fields in this country have no hedges; how
the cows are as meagre as their keepers; how wretched the huts and
their owners appear; how French postillions jump in and out of
jack-boots, with their shoes on, because they are too heavy to drag
after them; how they harness their horses with ropes; how dexterously
they crack the merciless whips with which they belabour the poor hacks
they drive; how we were obliged to pay for five of these hacks, having
only four in our carriage, and two of them frequently blind, lame, or
useless; with many other items, that might be grievous to hear, could I
but persuade myself thoroughly to pity or be angry at the whole French
nation, for not exactly resembling the English. But do they themselves
complain? Mercy on us! Complain?--Nothing is so grateful to their
hearts, as the praise of that dear country, which English travellers
are so prone to despise!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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