Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
At 6 leave St. Michael. The _Silver Wave_ is a tub--too short--am
told if it were of proper length they would have to have more help.
Result--very unsteady. Fortunately the weather is fair, and the
captain gives me a berth in his cabin. I had originally a stateroom,
right in the back, with three bunks or beds, so small that one could
barely get into the beds; but there came two mix-breed women with a
girl and so they turned me out and put me in the "hole"--seven bunks
in an ill-ventilated cabin under the deck in the stern of the ship.
She is only about 60 feet long by about 15 broad. As it is I have a
bunk in what would have been a well-ventilated little cabin, had it
not been for rough weather which came on later in the night and which
necessitated the closing of the window.
Friday, July 16. The rougher weather came and the boat began to pitch
and roll. Luckily I slept for the most part. At about 6.30 the captain
called me to breakfast with him. I got up rather groggy from the sea,
but managed to wash my face and get to the little messroom, where the
cook started to bring eggs, bacon, coffee, etc.--and then I had enough
and had all I could do to reach my bunk again without getting seasick.
I was kept on the verge of it until after 10, when we arrived off Nome.
This, however, meant no relief. There was no bay, no dock, no shelter
for even such a small boat, and so we anchored a few hundred yards off
the shore along which stretch the long line of unpainted (mostly),
weather-beaten frame dwellings of this northern capital.
By this time I barely keep my feet, but they lowered a heavy rowboat,
and several of us--there were four other men passengers--are helped
to tumble in. I get back, and to steady myself catch hold of the
borders of the boat, only for this the next moment to be dashed against
the larger boat with my hand between. It was almost too much, the
seasickness and added to it the very painful hurt. Fortunately the
fingers were not crushed, just bruised badly--they might easily have
been mashed to a pulp.
They row us in and we tumble out on the sand, and there is no one to
receive anybody or take any notice. However, after a while there comes
accidentally an old two-seated Ford. Three of us crowd in, leave the
few bulkier things we brought along on the beach unguarded, and are
driven to the other end of the town, to the Golden Gate Hotel.
This is a big old frame building, out of plumb in several directions.
There is no one in the spacious lobby. However, after a time some one,
not looking much like a proprietor--more like a groom at work--comes
out from somewhere and without much ado shows us each to a room. Mine
smells musty, old sweat and blankets and mould, and looks out on a
dilapidated tin roof--must ask for another. Finally get one "front" for
$3--the other was only $2.50. Musty too, but fairly large, and with a
double bed with, at last again, clean covers.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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