Alaska -- Antiquities; Eskimos; Eskimos -- Anthropometry; Indians of North America -- Alaska; Indians of North America -- Yukon
Unshaven--in the khaki worse for rain and work--with fingers so sore
they can not bear a touch, feverish, and head still dizzy--I go to
lunch. On my way stop at Coast Guard building--no one there; at the
Roads Commission--office empty; at the Customs--not a soul. But at the
courthouse they tell me where Judge Lomen sometimes lunches, and so I
go there. It is near by--nothing here is far distant--and so I soon sit
at Mrs. Niebeling's, a justly famed Nome's "for everybody," at a clean
table and to a big civilized dinner. Order reindeer roast--find it this
time, in my condition, not much to boast of--one could hardly tell it
from similarly done beef--and begin on the coffee when in comes a young
man, asks me if I am the doctor, and introduces himself as Mr. Alfred
Lomen, the judge's son; and in a minute or two in comes the judge
himself, a kindly man of something over 70. It all makes me feel a lot
better, though still weak. Have rest of lunch together and talk, but
do not get very far in anything that interests me; but the judge takes
me to the Catholic Fathers here, who have an orphanage somewhere near
where I want next to go, and leaves me with Father Post. The father is
kindly, but himself does not know much, and so makes arrangements for
me to meet next day Father Lafortune, who works among the Eskimo.
Then I go once more to the Coast Guard building and meet Captain
Ross, in charge. The _Bear_, I learn, has just arrived here, and is
soon going north. She is my godsend, evidently. So Captain Ross sends
me over to see Captain Cochran. The meeting is good, and I have a
promise to be taken to the cape and some other stations. But the _Bear_
goes first to coal at St. Michael, and then will make a visit to St.
Lawrence Island. So I propose to go to Teller first, see what I can of
the Chukchee-Eskimo "battle field" near there, and be taken from there
by the _Bear_. The priests give me some hope for getting there over an
inland route, but later on tell me one of the boats of the orphanage
which is located in that region is away and the other has broken down,
so that there will be no possibility of making the trip through the
Salt Lake and to Teller. But the _Victoria_ (the Seattle boat to come
to-night) will go to Teller. Unfortunately, if weather is rough or
there are no passengers she will not stop at Nome, so all is again
uncertain. The _Silver Wave_ goes northward next Monday, but I have a
dread of her. All of which is put down merely to show slightly what an
explorer without a boat of his own may expect in these regions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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