(4) Vigor and good general health are of great importance. Many old
trees are too far gone with neglect, having been too long starved or
having their vitality too much weakened by disease to make an effort
for their rehabilitation worth while. Good vigor, even though it be
dormant, is absolutely essential. Disease weakens the tree, making the
expense of renovation greater. Moreover, all diseased branches must be
removed, requiring severe cutting and often seriously injuring the
tree. Disease too often stunts the tree to such an extent as to make
stimulation practically impossible. Such matters should be carefully
looked into before attempting renovation.
(5) If the soil, site, and location are all unfavorable or even if two
of these are not good, time and money are likely to be wasted on
renovation. What constitutes unfavorable conditions in these respects
has already been pointed out in Chapter III.
Practically the same principles of pruning, cultivation, fertilization
and spraying apply in the management of the old orchard as in any
other orchard. It may be well, however, to restate these, briefly
pointing out their special value and application to the old neglected
orchard together with the few modifications of practice necessary. The
steps to be taken are four: (1) pruning, (2) fertilizing, (3)
cultivating, and (4) spraying.
(1) PRUNING.--Old and long-neglected apple orchards usually have a
large amount of dead wood in them. This may be removed at any time of
the year, but fall and winter are good times to begin the work. If the
trees are high and the limbs scattered and sprawling so that the
middle of the trees is not well filled out, the trees should be headed
back rather severely. Such trees may safely have their highest limbs
cut back from five to ten feet. It is best not to remove too many
branches in one year, but to spread severe cutting back over at least
two years, as so much pruning at one time weakens the tree and causes
an excessive growth of "suckers." Each limb should be cut back to a
rather strong and vigorous lateral branch which may then take up the
growth of the upright one. The effect of such heading back will be to
stimulate the branches lower down and probably to bring in more or
less "suckers." The following year the best of these suckers should
be selected at proper points about the tree, headed in so as to
develop their lateral buds, and encouraged by the removal of all other
suckers to fill in the top and center of the tree in the way desired.
All such severe heading in should best be done in the early spring.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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