Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
For a second time we were overlooking the stream of the Rion to regain
the left bank. It was flowing with a rapid current in a direct line
from the Caucasus, channelling the beached-up shingle of an extensive
bed. In places the waters spread in shallow lakes and deposit a thick
sediment of soil. This upper portion of the plain is barren and stony;
it is partially covered with a low jungle of bush. It is confined on
either side by the meeting flanks of the mountains; and as we made
our way due north with the river serpenting beneath us, all prospect
on our right hand was shut out by rising ground clothed with a forest
of low oak trees.
On the opposite slopes, among the deepening tints of wood and
clearing, beneath the growing distinction of light and shade, we
could discern the white faces of a few scattered houses and then the
gardens among which they stood. Two larger buildings were apparent,
crowned with conical cupolas, of which the roofing was coloured a
soft green. Such are the outskirts of Kutais; the town is hidden
from the plain. Towering above the scene and almost infinitely high,
we might feel vaguely but could scarcely see the gigantic framework
of Caucasus, except where here and there a dazzling light among the
clouds revealed the presence of a snowfield in the sky.
We were tempted to linger in the capital of Imeritia, and I can
confidently recommend to the more leisurely traveller a protracted
stay in this fascinating place. You will never tire of the beauty
of site and grandeur of surroundings, while few street scenes are
more picturesque than those which are disclosed during an afternoon
ramble in the Jewish quarter of Kutais. It is a convenient centre
for excursions into the recesses of Caucasus, and you have only
to follow the windings of the valley of the Rion to be introduced
to the inmost sanctuaries of the chain. In the ruins of the noble
cathedral beyond the outskirts of the town, in the neighbouring and
well-preserved monastery of Gelat, with its enchanting prospect from
the slopes of Caucasus over the open landscape of the south, both the
archæologist and the student of architecture will discover an abundant
source of interest; while, if the study of Nature herself be among
the objects of your journey, what richer field could be offered to
the geologist or the naturalist than these mountains and untouched
forests and flowery hills? But we ourselves were hurried away by the
exigencies of travel after a short sojourn of two and a half days,
and my present purpose must be confined to the elucidation of those
natural features which accompanied the early stages of our ascent to
Armenia, and which were unfolded to our view in an extensive panorama
from the declivities about Kutais.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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