At the Court of the Amîr: A NarrativeGray, John Alfred
History
At the Court of the Amîr: A Narrative
Gray, John Alfred
'Abd al-Rahman Khan, Amir of Afghanistan, -1901; Afghanistan -- History
There are three chief bazaars or streets of shops in Kabul. Two lead
from the direction of the workshop gorge eastward through the town.
One running near the foot of the mountains to the Bala Hissar, and the
other near the middle of the town. These two are for a considerable
distance broader, better paved, and more carefully roofed than the
others. In the best part the houses are two stories high. They are flat
topped, and beams supporting a roof to the bazaar extend across from
house to house. In other parts, where the houses are but one story,
the bazaar is not roofed in. The other chief bazaar extends from a
strong wooden bridge over the Kabul river, southward through the middle
of the town. This too is roofed over in a part of its course, but it
is neither so broad nor so carefully built as the others. There are
a few smaller bazaars and many narrow streets or passages striking
off in different directions from the others. They are badly paved,
undrained, and exceedingly dirty. The shops are small and open, like
stalls, with no front window. The floor of each is raised three or four
feet above the street, and the shopkeeper sits cross-legged among his
goods. At night he closes his shop with shutters, fastening the last
shutter with a chain and a curious cylindrical padlock. Some parts of
the bazaars are reserved for the sale or manufacture of particular
articles. There is, for instance, the shoe bazaar. This is in the
street leading from the wooden bridge south. The Afghan shoes are of
heavy make, are sewn with strips of leather and have the pointed toe
turned upwards. Some are elaborately embroidered with gold. The women’s
shoes or slippers are generally green in colour, and are made with a
high heel. They are almost sandals, having an upper only at the toe.
They are awkward things to walk in, I have noticed, for they drop at
the heel at every step. The native shoes are those most on show, but
one can buy English boots of all kinds, from the elaborate patent
leather of Northampton to the three-and-sixpenny army boot. There are
also long Russian boots made of beautifully soft leather: these are
the fashion among the highest class; and a cheaper Turkoman boot of a
similar shape with a high heel that cavalry soldiers who can afford
the luxury invest in. A shopkeeper is, however, none too ready to show
you his best goods. He does not exhibit them in the shop, for the
Government officials have a way of buying anything that takes their
fancy at their own price.
I noticed in the boot bazaar that in the three-foot space under the
floor of the shop the poorer men, the cobblers, did their business.
There was just room to sit, and there the cobbler sat stitching, with
his nose on a level with the knees of the passers by. A customer with a
shoe to mend squats down beside him and gives his orders. Cobblers who
can’t afford to rent even such a “shop” as this, sit by the roadside
in the shade of a wall or a tree and carry on their business.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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