Austria -- Description and travel; Hungary -- Description and travel
The scenery below Linz, though attractive, lacks grandeur, and is
chiefly of the willow and lowland order, numerous osier-covered islands
appearing in every reach. The river Enns gives its name to the town
situated on it, and flows into the Danube nearly opposite to the
ancient castle of Spielberg. Before this we have passed the castle of
Tillysberg and the monastery of St. Florian--the former called after
Marechal Tilly, the terrible soldier who, before he was defeated at
Leipsic, used to boast he had never been in love, never been drunk, and
never lost a battle!
St. Florian, who lived in the time of the Emperor Diocletian, was
put to death by being flung into a river with a stone tied round his
neck, hence his peculiar fame for assistance in putting out fires.
The invocation to him ran, “O Florian, martyr and saint! Keep us,
we beseech thee, by night and by day from all harm by fire or other
casualties of this life!” The monastery dedicated to him is very large;
the greater part of it was rebuilt in the eighteenth century, but some
of it dates from the thirteenth.
Before reaching Grein, the scenery once more grows grand, and the town
itself lies above the Strudel and Wirbel, once places of great dread
owing to the rocks and rapids. But much of the danger has been done
away by blasting the rocks; though necessarily some picturesque effects
have vanished at the same time, still the increased safety has not been
too dearly bought. The real variety and beauty of the scenery cannot be
properly understood by those who merely rush through.
The island of Worth splits the channel into two. It has a ridge of rock
on the north side and this rises in contrast to the base of soft white
sand which forms a “silver strand” when the current is not swollen
unduly. The chief pinnacle is of course adorned by the inevitable ruin,
and this is further signalised by a large crucifix, at sight of which
the peasants cross themselves.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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