Austria -- Description and travel; Hungary -- Description and travel
The tremendous task of cutting or blowing away masses of rock from
the river channel took about eight years, and during the winter the
workmen occupied Worth Island. The Horse-Shoe water-course, built of
freestone, skirting the north side of the island, was planned by the
engineer Liske, and the great undertaking was completed by blowing off
tons of the Kellerrock, a length measuring over 160 feet. The second
terror, the Wirbel, has now altogether disappeared. It was a whirlpool
occasioned by the meeting of the two streams which flowed fast around
a long tongue of rock 18 feet or so above water normally and 150 yards
long by a third as broad. This was less than three-quarters of a
mile below the Strudel, and boats and rafts just recovered from the
one had to plunge into the eddies and whirlpools of the other at very
great risk of being swamped altogether. The cause was in reality simple
enough and easily to be understood, being that one stream came up
against the impetuous force of the other almost at right angles, but
the peasant mind, revelling in the supernatural, invested it with all
the mystery of the unknown, and strange tales of weird wraiths rising
from unfathomable depths added to the terrors of the passage, and the
great circles of the eddying water, reaching sometimes to 50 feet in
circumference, were looked upon as a kind of trap peopled by sirens.
This was hardly wonderful, as at times the inside vortex was 5 feet
deep like a funnel or cup.
[Illustration: RUMANIAN CHILDREN BRINGING WATER TO BE BLESSED IN THE
GREEK CHURCH, DESZE]
The railway which we met at Linz took a curve to the south, and it is
not until after the junction with the river Ybbs we meet it again. The
white castle of Persenbeug stands up conspicuously near, with the town
of the same name close at hand. The castle of Weiteneck, the monastery
of Mölk, are both wonderful, but the latter compels the greatest
attention. It is huge and completely eclipses the little town attached
to it. The grandeur of its lines, the splendour of its interior finish,
mark it out as a palace among monasteries. Its cupolas and long ranges
of windows give it an individual note. Inside, the library is a truly
princely room, no less in its adornment than the valuable books and
manuscripts it contains.
Enough has been said to show that the stretch of the Danube between
Passau and Vienna fairly bristles with scenic and historic interest,
but two more castles at least must be mentioned, that of Aggstein,
standing aloof and remote on its towering pinnacle of rock, and that of
Dürrenstein, where Richard Cœur de Lion was imprisoned.
In the good old days, when might was right and opportunity
justification, these robber barons, perched on their mountain tops,
commanded the reaches of the river and levied toll to their liking on
the luckless men whose business compelled them to pass by water.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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