Austria -- Description and travel; Hungary -- Description and travel
It has little left of ancient interest, if we except the Cathedral
of St. Nicholas, and the situation lacks any sort of charm. The town
lies in the flat plain beside a canal. This canal is as a bow to the
string of the river Danube, and was made in order to bring water
facilities to the capital. The difficulty is to imagine why this
particular place was chosen as a site rather than any other. On one
side at a distance of a mile or so are the heights of Kablenburg and
Leopoldsburg, which can be reached by rail, and from which the whole
place can be seen lying unfolded like a map. The canal with its many
bridges curves round at one’s feet, and at the outermost rim of its bow
is the town with many fine buildings, including the Cathedral, standing
up conspicuously out of the mass of lower ones. Away to the south is
the lumpy hill of Wagram where Napoleon won a hard-fought battle. The
city has tasted not once but many times in its history the bitterness
of capture and was twice occupied by the all-conquering Napoleon.
But if the site shows little to attract attention, the town itself
is full of charm, which is felt at once by any foreigner visiting
it. Though the architecture shows Italian influence, yet it is
characteristic and different from anything seen elsewhere; it carries
its own stamp and is Viennese. Then there is a peculiar lightness and
brightness in the streets for which it is difficult to account; it
is somewhat the same atmosphere as that of Paris, but again has its
own distinctive flavour. Everywhere in the boulevards, the shops,
the cafés, one meets the same willingness to help, the same cheerful
courtesy, the same attractive simplicity of manner; there is nothing
over-elaborated or forced. There is plenty of light and air, and if
Vienna cannot boast the attractions of ancient buildings, she can boast
all the advantages of a modern city.
The chief features of the town are the Cathedral of St. Stephen, the
Royal Palace of Schönbrunn, and the Prater.
The Cathedral, founded in 1144, is in an ornate style of Gothic, and
its soaring spire, seen far and wide over the country, is balanced and
finished by the pointed lesser towers, the gables and the windows, so
that the principal note is one of uplifting. At one time the building,
like most old churches, was encumbered by a mass of houses, hovels,
etc., which clung to its sides like barnacles, but these were all
swept away, and the glorious architecture is now seen to advantage.
The celebrated tomb of Frederick IV. in the choir is of red marble
ornamented by more than 300 figures and subjects. The whole building
is one of the finest existing monuments of old German architecture in
existence. The lofty vaulting of the nave is supported by eighteen
pillars. Anton Pilgram’s chancel is particularly deserving of study,
and the visitor should not miss the thirty-eight altars of sculptured
marble. Most notable is the High Altar with the sculpture of the
Stoning of St. Stephen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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