Beautiful Philippines: A Handbook of General InformationPhilippine Islands. Commission of Independence
History
Beautiful Philippines: A Handbook of General Information
Philippine Islands. Commission of Independence
Philippines -- Description and travel; Philippines -- Economic conditions
San Pablo is a progressive town well worth visiting. It is one of the
largest towns in the Islands and is up-to-date in every respect. A
large park overlooks a lake of rare beauty with the majestic San
Cristobal mountains in the background. A long flight of white stone
steps leads from the cliff above down to the lake shore, and the
park is a favorite picnic ground. The veteran's monument at this
point always attracts much attention. The town has numerous private
residences of striking architectural design.
[Pagsanjan Falls]
One of the prettiest and wildest spots lies within easy reach of
Manila--Pagsanjan Falls. Pagsanjan, the town, in itself worth seeing
for its beautiful residences and the surrounding forests, can be
reached in three and one-half hours by train or automobile through
a lovely coconut country. There are good hotel accommodations with
clean beds and food. Everything is done for the tourist; arrangements
are made for boats and guides, and launches are provided.
From the hotel you walk a short distance to a long row of bancas,
prow on shore, and a noisy throng of men clamoring for the favor of
your patronage; but you have probably chosen men at the hotel and are
conducted to certain boats by your guide. In the center of your boat
is the seat, a split bamboo chair with reclining back and bottom of
bamboo splints. The two boatmen take their places at the ends of the
boat and push off into the small stream for a few hundred yards to
Pagsanjan River.
The boat is paddled up the river past large rafts of coconuts, by
great trees dipping their leaves into the water. Along the shores are
parties of laughing people--some bathing and some washing clothes. Now
there are long reaches of quiet water, clear and deep; then banks
begin to rise above you; there is a swirl here, a ripple there, and
a swish below the gunwales. You are drawing toward the rapids. The
boatmen get put into the water and pull and tug and shove; the water
sucks viciously. The boat enters the gorge and its shadows. The river
becomes silent stretches of black water, and the air is cold. Above,
for hundreds of feet, tower the great cliffs of Pagsanjan to which
cling vines, desperate trees, and dripping shrubs. On all sides are
falls breaking upon the rocks and filling the canyon with a pleasant
murmur; then more rapids and sweeps of fierce water. Great boulders
have fallen into the river. Unable to paddle against the current or
to wade, the men now fight painfully forward by clinging to vines,
the rocks, anything. Then out of the boat again, lifting it and you
bodily up steps of pouring water, around corners, shooting across a
quiet pool into a fury of cascading foam. At times you scramble out
of the boat and detour a little over intervening rocks, while the
fight with the river goes on. For two hours the journey continues,
until you come to the end--a large pool--above you, Pagsanjan Falls,
the largest waterfall in the Islands, around, the insurmountable
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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