Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)Stanley, Edward
History
Before and after Waterloo: Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802; 1814; 1816)
Stanley, Edward
Europe -- Description and travel; France -- History -- Consulate and First Empire, 1799-1815
Now you must enter our rooms in l'Hôtel des Etrangers, rue du Hazard, as
I know you wish to see minutely. First walk, if you please, into an
antechamber paved with red hexagon tiles (dirty enough, to be sure), and
the saloon also, into which you next enter through a pair of folding
doors. This saloon is in the genuine tawdry French style--gold and
silver carving work and dirt are the component features. It is about 20
feet square, plenty of chairs, sofas of velvet, and so forth, but only
one wretched rickety table in the centre. Two folding doors open into
our bedroom, which is in furniture pretty much like the rest; the beds
are excellent--fitted up in a sort of tent fashion--and mine has a
looking-glass occupying the whole of one side, in which I may at leisure
contemplate myself in my night-cap, for I cannot discover for what other
purpose it was placed there.
Now let us take a walk--put on thick shoes or you will find yourself
rather troubled with the paving stones, for nothing like a flagged
footpath exists; a slight inclination from each side terminates in a
central gutter, from which are exploded showers of mud by the passing
carriages and cabriolets. You must get on as you can; horse and foot,
coaches and carts are jumbled together, and he who walks in Paris must
have his eyes about him. The streets are in general narrow and
irregular, and so much alike that it requires no small skill to find
one's way home again. Ariadne in Paris would wish for her clue. First we
ascended the bronze column[40] in the Place de Vendôme--figure to
yourself a column perfect in proportions much resembling Nelson's in
Dublin, ornamented after the plan of Trajan's pillar--all of bronze, on
which the operations of the wars and victories in Germany are recorded.
Bonaparte's statue crowned it, but that was removed. The column itself,
however, will remain an eternal statue commemorating his deeds, and
though the Eagles and letter N are rapidly effacing from every quarter,
this must last till Paris shall be no more. From the top of this pillar
you of course have a magnificent view, and it must have been a choice
spot from whence to behold the fight of Montmartre. It will scarcely
interest you much to say much about the other public buildings, suffice
it to say that all the improvements are in the very best
style--magnificent to the last degree; they may be the works of a
Tyrant, but it was a Tyrant of taste, who had more sense than to spend
120,000 Louis in sky-rockets. His public buildings at least were for the
public good, and were ornaments to his capital.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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