Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the EastHume-Griffith, M. E.
Philosophy
Behind the Veil in Persia and Turkish Arabia: An Account of an Englishwoman's Eight Years' Residence Amongst the Women of the East
Hume-Griffith, M. E.
Arabian Peninsula -- Social life and customs; Iran -- Social life and customs
Persians have often been called the Frenchmen of the East.
They certainly are a most courteous and polite people, outwardly at
all events, and are masters in the art of paying compliments to one
another. But to a novice it is no light matter to know just the right
amount of flattery to deal out, as it is almost as bad a mistake
to give any one a great deal too much flattery as not to give him
enough. The art lies in knowing just what is due to each person,
according to the rank of life he occupies. When you wish to visit
any one it is not polite to send word to say, "I am coming." You must
couch your message in much more flowery language, such as, "I want to
honour myself by coming to see your nobleness." The answer will be
"Bis'millah--Please bring your tashrif (dignity)." There is great
etiquette, too, over the kalian-smoking and tea-drinking, each one
deprecatingly suggesting that his neighbour should partake first and
the other declining the honour with a sweeping bow; but every one knows
who is entitled to the first whiff of the kalian or the first cup of
tea, and no one would dare to think of defrauding him of his right.
It seems such a pity that Persians of high class are gradually falling
into European ways, for they do not suit these Frenchmen of the East
half so well as their own manners and customs.
While we were in Kerman the governor was one who had lived in Europe
a good deal, and liked everything done a la Feringhi; he much enjoyed
English afternoon teas, home-made cakes, &c. Soon after our arrival
there an invitation came from the governor for dinner the following
week. On the evening appointed a carriage came for us and drove us
to the "Arg," as the house of the governor is called. We found a
splendid dinner waiting for us, served in French style, about twenty
courses of excellently cooked dishes. After dinner we were amused
by Persian musicians and singers. We were entertained by the nephew
of the governor, who apologised for the absence of his uncle, who,
he said, was suffering from a bad attack of fever which prevented his
presiding at the table. We heard afterwards that the real reason of
his non-appearance was not fever, but a fear of being laughed at. He
knew how things ought to be done according to European fashion, and
was afraid that he had not all the necessaries to carry out a dinner
successfully, and so preferred not to show himself. However, when he
saw how splendidly the first dinner-party went off he decided to give
another, so in about a week's time we received a second invitation to
dinner. This time the governor himself took the head of the table,
and did the honours of it well, too. He certainly had nothing to be
ashamed of, for everything was served in perfect French style. From
the soup to the dessert, with all the intermediary courses, everything
was dished up in perfect taste and on good china. The glass and table
decorations would not have disgraced a European table.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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