In the church of St. Sauveur, Rue des Prêtres, there is a painting
of the “Descent from the Cross,” by Van Hanslaere, one of the most
distinguished living artists of Belgium, and in that of St. Peter, a
copy by Van Thulden, from Rubens’ picture of the Triumph of Truth over
Luther and Calvin, who are represented in the agonies of annihilation,
trampled underfoot by the rampant followers of Truth, who are pursuing
their disciples in all directions. In the foreground, a lion is
introduced allegorically, pawing a wolf whom he has just strangled,
emblematic, no doubt, of the fall of heresy under the hands of the
church.
We drove to the village of Gavre, about ten miles from Ghent, to dine
at the villa of M. Grenier, a very splendid house recently erected upon
one of the very few elevated points, for it cannot be called a hill,
which are to be found in Flanders, and which, from the vast level plain
over which it rises, commands a most enchanting view; the ancient town
of Audenarde lying immediately in front, and the “lazy Scheldt” winding
its devious way amidst innumerable hamlets, woods and villages as far
as the eye could reach.
It was at Gavre, that the Duke of Marlborough encamped on his triumphal
march from Ramillies, where, after taking all the intervening cities
and strong-holds of Flanders, together with Audenarde and Ghent,
almost in the space of a week, he addresses thence to the Duchess the
remarkable letter, in which he says, “so many towns have submitted
since the battle, that it really looks more like a dream than truth,”
and in another place, he says, “I am so persuaded that this campaign
will give us a good peace, that I beg of you to do all you can that our
house at Woodstock may be carried up as much as possible, that I may
have a prospect of living in it.”
It was the fête of some saint in the villages through which we drove,
and every country inn seemed full of enjoyment; tents filled with
dancers, and parties engaged in athletic games before the doors. In
one place a considerable crowd were assembled round the maypole to
shoot with the bow at the popinjay. This is a favourite exercise of
the Flemings, who are exceedingly expert in it, the company which
we passed, was composed indifferently of the gentry and peasants,
who seemed to enter into it with equal spirit. At Ghent, there is an
association for the purpose of practising the use of the bow, called
the Confrères de Saint George, a relic of the time when every district
of Flanders had a similar society, all which used to meet at Ghent to
contend for the prize, and the successful town caused a mass to be
celebrated in honour of the victor, and gave to the poor the scarlet
cloaks, laced with gold, which had been worn as the costume of the day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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