The choir, which is finished with carved mahogany, has on either
side, at the entrance, two statues of St. Peter and St. Paul casting
the viper from his hand, by Van Poucke, a modern Flemish sculptor,
who died at Rome in 1809. Among its other ornaments are four lofty
candelabra of polished copper, once the property of Charles I of
England, and sold along with the other decorations of the chapel at
Whitehall by order of the Commonwealth. Round the altar are also some
tombs of the former prelates of Ghent, amongst which, that by Duquesnoy
of the Bishop Triest, is regarded as the finest piece of sculpture in
the Netherlands. The mitred dignitaries each repose upon his sculptured
sarcophagus, or kneel with clasped and upraised hands:
“Seeming to say the prayer when dead,
That living they had never said.”
Here, again, the pulpit is an extraordinary production in carved
wood of huge dimensions, but with white marble ornaments and figures
injudiciously intermingled with the rich old oak. The principal
figures are statues of Truth awakening Time, and presenting to him
the scriptures with the motto, “_surge qui dormis illuminabit te
Christus!_” This pulpit, which is far inferior to those at Antwerp and
elsewhere, is not by Verbruggen, who is the Canova of wood, but by an
artist of Ghent, called Laurence Delvaux, who died about 1780.
The other churches present a succession of objects which is almost as
tiresome to visit as it is tedious to enumerate. That of St. Michael,
in extent and magnificence, is second only to the cathedral. Amongst a
host of ordinary paintings, and some by modern artists, especially one
of great merit, by Paelinck, a native of Ghent, it possesses a chef
d’œuvre of Vandyk, a “Crucifixion,” in which he has introduced the
same magnificent horse as in his picture of Charles V, in the Sal di
Baroccio, at Florence. Sir Joshua Reynolds calls it “one of his noblest
works.” It had been injured by repeated cleanings, but M. Voisin, the
historian of Ghent, observes with much naïveté, “qu’il vient d’être
restauré par un artiste habile.” Who he may be who has ventured to
restore a chef-d’œuvre of Vandyck, M. Voisin discreetly forbears to
name.
An association, called the Brotherhood of St. Ivoy, formerly met in
this church, which was composed of the most distinguished members of
the bar, who gave advice to the poor, and bore the expense of any
legal process which it might be necessary to institute for them out
of a common fund. This law hospital has not, however, survived the
revolution of 1830. The music and choir of St. Michael’s are remarkably
fine, the organ is of extraordinary richness and volume, and nothing
could possibly be more sublime than its melodious tones resounding
amidst the “dim religious light” of the old gothic church, when
“Through the long-drawn aisle and fretted vault,
The pealing anthem swells the note of praise.”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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