pulpits in the Netherlands, representing the conversion of St. Paul, in
which the terror of the horse, and the fall of the rider, are exhibited
with the most surprising vigour and effect.
In another church, that of Notre Dame, there is a picture by Rubens
of the miraculous draught of fishes, which with its volets once
formed eight subjects, which he painted in ten days for the chapel
of the Poissonniers. The entire were carried to Paris, and only
five returned. Another of his favourite pictures is the Adoration of
the Magi, in the church of St. John, of which he used to say, “c’est
à Saint. Jean de Malines, qu’il faut aller pour voir de mes beaux
ouvrages.” I must say, however, that it did not afford me the same
pleasure, which it must have done to the great painter himself. The
sacristan showed us an autograph receipt of Rubens for 1800 florins,
for this picture and its volets, all of which he painted in eighteen
days. It bears date in March, 1624. The altar of the church was
likewise designed by him, and the walls are covered with a profusion of
paintings, the works of artists of minor eminence, and whose merits,
though they would be recognized elsewhere, are unfavourably brought
into contrast with those of their great master.
We dined at one of the most comfortable and clean hotels I have seen in
Belgium, that of St. Jacques, in the Marché aux Grains, and returned,
by the railroad, to a very inferior one at Brussels, though much more
pretending.
CHAPTER III.
LOUVAIN--WATERLOO AND NAMUR.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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