flags; in a word, the whole of that enchanted city, which resembles less
an immense capital than an endless succession of lovely kiosks, built in
a boundless park, having lakes for docks, mountains for background,
forests for thickets, fleets for boats,--in fine, an incomparable spot,
and at the same time so grand and elegant, that it seems to have been
designed by fairies, and executed by giants.
Several writers have compared the view of Constantinople to that of
Naples. I cannot, however, agree with them. Any one can figure the
latter capital, whilst, on the contrary, the City of the Sultan
surpasses all that imagination can picture. Our enchantment, however,
was of short duration: the vapours again became condensed, the view was
gradually covered with a rosy haze, then became dim, and Constantinople
disappeared from before us like a dream. The Scamandre, which had
stopped for a few minutes, was again put in motion, and having rounded
the Seraglio, cast anchor in the midst of the strait which separates
Stamboul (the Turkish quarter) from Galata, (the European faubourg.) In
a moment the deck of our vessel was one scene of confusion: the sailors
were running to and fro, while the passengers were rushing one against
another, vociferating after their baggage. Around the vessel there kept
gliding two or three hundred black caicks, rowed by half-naked boatmen;
and notwithstanding the orders to the contrary, a quantity of Maltese
sailors, Turkish porters, and Levantine ciceroni came on board, and
literally took us by storm, bawling out their offers of service, in
almost every known language. Clouds of blue pigeons, and whitewinged
albatros, flew about over our heads, uttering plaintive cries; add to
these the stentorian voice of our French commander, the curiosity and
impatience of the travellers demonstrated by their noisy exclamations,
and one will have an idea of the spectacle offered by the deck of a
steamer on its arrival at a Turkish port.
During the hauling of the vessel to the quay, I scarcely knew upon what
to fix my eyes, attracted as they simultaneously were by a thousand
different objects. Here was the Golden Horn with its numberless ships,
the cypress-trees of Galata, and the seven hills of ancient Byzantium
covered with mosques; there, the blue waves of the Propontis, and the
glittering banks of Scutari. Giddy with enthusiasm, and intoxicated with
admiration, I attempted, as our caick approached the landing-place, to
be the first to leap upon the quay, when, just as I was in the act of
springing, my foot slipped, and I fell headlong into a miry stream. Such
was my entrance into Constantinople.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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