From an eminence we looked down upon an extensive prospect of shaded
unoccupied hills, with the wide plain beyond and the Mediterranean Sea;
then descended into a valley, the road winding about through immense
olive groves; the travelling was easy, and all the district bore the
appearance of prosperity, such as could hardly be expected where we know
that factious warfare so frequently exists. Passed _Cuf'r Ruman_. As
far as _'Annabeh_ the course had been for a long time westwards; but
there, at the opening of the great plain, we turned due southwards. This
was four hours from _Sanoor_, at a good pace. Passed between _'Annabeh_
and _Tool el Ker'm_ in changing our course. Near _Irtahh_ we passed a
camel-party going down to Egypt with bales of soap and tobacco for sale.
We were upon the established route of trade between Damascus and Egypt,
and not very far distant from Dothan, where the Midianite or Ishmaelite
caravan bought Joseph from his brethren; but we had passed this on our
left hand in the morning.
Soon passed _Farra'an_ on our left, with a weli and a cistern below it,
by the roadside. _Kalinsawa_ in sight, but far away to the right;
_Ferdisia_ and _Zenabeh_ on the left. The day very hot, and the
peasantry observed to be, as usual in all the Philistine country, cleaner
in their garments than those of the mountains.
Coasted along, parallel to the line of hills, as far as _Kalkeeleh_,
where we began to turn inwards, across the fields, towards the place of
our destination, namely, _Mejdal Yaba_, which was conspicuous on an
eminence before us. This was at six and a half hours from _Sanoor_.
In a field we arrived at a well, where the water must have been very low
down, being late in the year; for it was only obtained by jars or skins
drawn up at the end of a very long rope, worked by a long line of women
walking across the field, and singing at their work, while the men sat
looking on and smoking.
We passed the remains of some old considerable town, where, among the
fallen building stones and the lines of foundations, there was a cistern,
and an ancient sarcophagus by its side; also a deep square well filled up
with rubbish, and remains of quarrying work in the solid rock,--besides
an unroofed building, with a semicircular arch to the doorway. Surely
this must have been of Roman construction.
Arrived at _Mejdal Yaba_ in nine hours from Sanoor,--a hot and tiring
journey. At a short distance below us was the site of _Ras el 'Ain_; and
farther westwards, but within sight, the tall white tower of _Ramlah_.
Time--sunset.
I had a special object in coming off the common high-roads to this place,
but little known, at that time not at all known, to Europeans,--namely,
to visit Shaikh Sadek, the responsible ruler of the district, and
regarded by the peasantry with especial deference, out of traditional
obedience to his ancient family.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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