I should observe, that not only Herod did well in selecting this spot for a castle, because of its situation on the verge of the mountains, commanding the road from Jerusalem to either Caesarea or Joppa; but because it lies also upon the direct caravan track between Damascus and Egypt, nearly at right angles with the other road. The ruined Saracenic khan which now stands on the foundations of the Roman castle, is of large size, and has a broken mosque in the centre of the enclosure. We rested and breakfasted, from our own resources, (without taxing the Arab hospitality of Shaikh Sadek's family at Mejdal,) at the springs of the Aujeh,--the water bubbling up warm from the ground, among stones, with aquatic birds flying over us, and the morning breeze sighing among the gigantic reeds and the willows. We engaged a guide for what seemed likely to be a short day's journey to _Ras Kerker_, the _cursi_, or metropolis, of another dominant family--that of _Ibn Simhhan_--within the mountains; but it proved far longer than was expected. We were conducted due south, yet so far away from the line of hills that we missed the Roman temple of _M'zeera'a_, which I do not know that, to this day, any European but myself has seen. {136} To _Nebi Sari_, which is a pretty weli, two hour only from Jaffa. To _Runtieh_, which is a poor place. Then south-eastwards to _Teereh_; near which we started a gazelle across the fields. In that part of the country the population has so greatly increased of late years that there was a scarcity of land for cultivation; and at the end of autumn the villages contest the right of ploughing there by fights of fire-arms. Suddenly we turned into a valley, at an acute angle with our previous road. This is named _Wadi el Kharnoob_--probably from some conspicuous karoobah-tree. In ascending the hill, I looked back, and had a beautiful prospect of Jaffa, and a white ship sailing on the sea. We continued ascending higher and higher. Before us was a large building on a single hill, which they called _Dair Musha'al_. Passed the ruined village, _Hhanoonah_. On our right hand, among trees, was _Desrah_. Passed through _Shukbeh_. How different is the mountain air from that of the plain, so light and so pure! Descended a little to _Shibtain_, where there was a great ancient well; and being surrounded by hills, the place was very hot. Then for some time over very dangerous paths, mounting upwards, till we reached the region of a cool breeze, such as I once heard a peasant say was "worth a thousand purses" on a summer's day. Saw _Ras Kerker_, the place of our destination, high above, in a very remarkable situation; but how to get at it was a puzzle which patient perseverance alone could solve.