Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya ColonyCarpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
History
Cairo to Kisumu : $b Egypt—The Sudan—Kenya Colony
Carpenter, Frank G. (Frank George)
Egypt -- Description and travel; Kenya -- Description and travel; Sudan -- Description and travel
Entering the gate, I came into a great stone-flagged court upon which
the study halls face. The court was surrounded by arcades upheld by
marble pillars, and in the arcades and in the immense rooms beyond were
thousands upon thousands of seekers after Koranic learning. They sat in
groups on the floor, listening to the professors, who were lecturing on
various subjects, swaying back and forth as they chanted their words of
wisdom. Some of the groups were studying aloud, until the confusion was
as great as that at the Tower of Babel when the tongues of the builders
were multiplied. There were at least five thousand men all talking at
once, and all, as it seemed to me, were shouting at the tops of their
voices. As I made my way through the mass, I had many unfriendly looks
and narrowly escaped being mobbed when I took snapshots of the professors
and students at work under the bright sun which beat down upon the
court. The inmates of this school are among the most fanatical of the
Mohammedans, and I have since learned that the Christian who ventures
among them may be in danger of personal violence.
I spent some time going from hall to hall and making notes. In one
section I found a class of blind boys who were learning the Koran, and I
am told that they are more fanatical than any of the others. In another
place I saw forty Persians listening to a professor. They were sitting
on the ground, and the professor himself sat flat on the floor with his
bare feet doubled up under him. I could see his yellow toes sticking out
of his black gown. He was lecturing on theology and the students were
attentive.
Another class near by was taking down the notes of a lecture. Each had a
sheet of tin, which looked as though it might have been cut from an oil
can, and he wrote upon this in ink with a reed stylus. The letters were
in Arabic so I could not tell what they meant.
I looked about in vain for school furniture such as we have at home.
There was not a chair or a table in the halls; there were no maps or
diagrams and no scientific instruments. There were no libraries visible;
the books used were mostly pamphlets.
There is no charge for tuition and the poor and the rich are on much the
same level. Many of the undergraduates are partially supported by the
university; it is no disgrace to be without money. Some of the students
and professors live in the university. They sleep in the schoolrooms
where they study or teach, lying down upon mats and covering themselves
with their blankets. They eat there, peddlers bringing in food and
selling it to them. Their diet is plain, a bowl of bean soup and a cake
of pounded grain, together with some garlic or dates, forming the most
common meal. These things cost little, but to those who are unable to
buy, the university gives food. Nine hundred loaves of bread are supplied
without charge to needy students every day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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