Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veraciousSpencer, Edward
General
Cakes & Ale: A Dissertation on Banquets Interspersed with Various Recipes, More or Less Original, and anecdotes, mainly veracious
Spencer, Edward
Cooking, English; Dinners and dining; Entertaining; Gastronomy
Take three woodcocks, underdone, and cut them into neat
portions. On a silver dish bruise the livers and trails,
squeeze over them the juice of four (?) lemons, and grate over
them a little of the thin rind. Add the portions of woodcock,
seasoned with salt, and--according to the prior--mixed spices
and two teaspoonfuls of French mustard; but the writer would
substitute cayenne _seul_; over all half a wine-glass of
sherry; and then put the dish over a spirit lamp. When the
mixture is _nearly_ boiling, add a tablespoonful of salad oil,
blow out the light, and stir well. _Four_ lemons are mentioned
in this recipe, as at the time it was written lemons were very
small when "cocks" were "in." _Two_ imported lemons (or limes)
will amply suffice nowadays.
_A Salmi of Wild Duck_
can be made almost in the same way, but here the aid of that modern
instrument the _Duck-Squeezer_ is necessary.
Cut the best of the meat in slices, off a lightly-roasted
wild-duck, after brought to table; break up the carcase and
place in a species of mill (silver) called a "duck-squeezer,"
which possesses a spout through which the richness of the
animal escapes, after being squeezed. Make a gravy of this
liquor, in a silver dish (with a spirit lamp beneath), added to
a small pat of butter, the juice of a lemon, a tablespoonful
of Worcester sauce, with cayenne and salt to taste, and half
a wine-glassful of port wine. Warm the meat through in this
gravy, which must not boil.
Of course these two last-named dishes are only intended for
bachelor-parties. Lovely woman must not be kept waiting for
"duck-squeezers" or anything else.
_The Jesuits_
introduced the turkey into Europe, of which feat the Jesuits need
not boast too much; for to some minds there be many better edible
birds; and the "gobbler" requires, when roasted or boiled, plenty of
seasoning to make him palatable. The French stuff him in his roasted
state, with truffles, fat force-meat, or chestnuts, and invariably
"bard" the bird--"bard" is old English as well as old French--with
fat bacon. The French turkey is also frequently brazed, with an
abundant _mirepoix_ made with what their cooks call "Madére," but
which is really Marsala. It is only we English who boil the "gobbler,"
and stuff him (or her, for it is the hen who usually goes into the
pot) with oysters, or force-meat, with celery sauce. Probably the
best parts of the turkey are his legs, when grilled for breakfast,
and smothered with the sauce mentioned in one of the chapters on
"Breakfast"; and
_Pulled Turkey_
makes an agreeable luncheon-dish, or _entrée_ at dinner, the
breast-meat being pulled off the bone with a fork, and fricasseed,
surrounded in the dish by the grilled thighs and pinions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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