For it is a flat kingdom, that of the Little Duck--the hills hanging
remotely on the horizon, the few trees and scattered hugging the low
shore of the sloughs as the shipwrecked cling to their rafts, desperate
of rescue. The rich web of the samphire, the shifting colour of the
water, faintly reminiscent of Venice, borrow another foreign touch
from the names under which the borders recommended themselves to
attention:--Sausalito, "little willows," Tiburon, Corta Madero, San
Quentin, San Raphael. Approached from the water, these names, with
the exception of San Quentin, do no more than stir the imagination.
San Quentin, on one of those courtesy islands newly rescued from the
primordial mud, shows itself uncompromisingly for what it is, one of
those places for the sequestration of public offenders, which is itself
such an offence to our common humanity--to say nothing of our common
sense. Free tides, free sails go by, and long, untrammelled lines of
birds; south above the blue bay and bluer shore, the ethereal blue
dome of Diablo lifts into the free air. Across the upper end of San
Pablo Bay, which is really the north arm of the bay of San Francisco
extending inland, Mare Island lies so low on the water that if it had
not been made a naval reserve station it is difficult to know to what
other use it could be put. One expects to have the land dip and swing
from under like the ship's deck. It is in line with the guns which lie
beside the Gate like watchful, muzzle-pointed dogs, and commands the
whole upper bay and the opposing bluffs of Contra Costa in a manner
highly commendable to those curious persons whose chief excitement
lies in anticipating an Asiatic invasion. Nevertheless, along with
the bastions of San Quentin it strikes, somehow, the note of human
distrust amid all this charm of light and line and elusive colour,
as if suddenly one should discover the tip of a barbed tail under the
skirt of some seductive stranger.
Between San Quentin and the Straits, all about the curve of the bay,
winding, wide-mouthed sloughs give access to a land as fertile as
Egypt. A slough is a mere wallow of unprofitable waters, waters unused
by men and still reluctant of the sea. Pushed aside by the compelling
tides, too undisciplined to make proper banks for themselves, they are
neglected by all but a few fringing willows and shapeless sycamores in
which the herons nest.
Often at evening the white-faced ibis can be seen flying in long,
voiceless lines, just clearing the twilight-tinted water, to their
accustomed night perches in the wind-beaten willows. They return there,
if undisturbed, year after year, accompanied in few and far-between
seasons by the egret and the snowy heron, grown man-shy, or if they
but knew the purpose for which their nuptial plumage is sacrificed,
woman-shy, and seldom seen even by the most wishful eyes.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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