Castles and Chateaux of Old BurgundyMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Burgundy
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Burgundy (France) -- Description and travel; Castles -- France -- Burgundy
Only skimpy odds and ends remain of Tonnerre's one-time flanking gates,
walls and towers. Its old chateau--which the counts invariably referred
to, and with reason doubtless, as a palace--has been rebuilt and
incorporated into the structure of the present hospital, itself a
foundation by Marguerite de Bourgogne and dating back to 1293. No doubt
many of the wards which to-day shelter the ill and crippled were once
the scene of princely revels.
In the nineteenth century the structure was further remodelled and put
in order, but it remains still, from an architectural point of view at
least, an admirable example of Renaissance building, though none of its
attributes to be seen at a first glance are such as are usually
associated with a great chateau of the noblesse of other days. At all
events its functions of to-day are worthy, and it is far better to
admire a mediæval chateau which has become a hospital than one which has
been transformed into a military barracks or a prison for thieves and
cutthroats, an indignity which has been thrust on many a grand old
edifice in France deserving of a better fate. To-day such a hard
sentence is seldom passed. The "Commission des Monuments Historiques"
sees to it that no such desecrations are further committed.
Within the hospice is the remarkably sculptured tomb of Marguerite de
Bourgogne; as remarkably done in fact as the better known ducal tombs at
Dijon, and those of the Église de Brou at Bourg-en-Bresse. The
workmanship of these elaborate sculptures is typical of that known as
the École de Dijon.
Tonnerre's most remarkable sight is neither its chateau, nor its
hospice, at least not according to the inhabitant. There is nothing to
the native more curious or interesting to see than the celebrated Fosse
Dionne (the Fons Dionysius of the ancients), a fountain which supplies
the city with an abundance of fresh water coming from no one knows
where, but spouting from the earth like a geyser, and with a sufficient
force to turn a couple of water-mills. An ordinary enough bubbling
spring is interesting to most of us, so that one enjoying an ancient and
mysterious reputation is put down as a local curiosity well worth coming
miles to see.
Half a dozen kilometres out from Tonnerre, on the road to
Châtillon-sur-Seine, is the Chateau de Tanlay, not known at all to the
travellers by express trains who are whisked by to Switzerland with
never as much as a slow-up or a whistle as they pass the little station
but a short distance from the park gates.
The Chateau de Tanlay is a superb relic of a sixteenth century work.
This was a period when architectural art had become debased not a
little, but here there is scarcely a trace of its having fallen off
from the best traditions of a couple of centuries before. It is this
fact, and some others, that makes Tanlay a sight not to be neglected by
the lover of old chateaux.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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