Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque ProvincesMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
What a charming structure this Loge is! Its fourteenth-century
constructive elements have been further beautified with late flowering
Gothic of a century and a half later, and its great bronze lamps suggest
a symbolism which stands for eternity, or at any rate bespeaks the
solidity of Perpignan for all time.
Beside the Loge is the Hôtel de Ville, with its round-arched doorways
and windows, iron-barred in real mediæval fashion, with dainty
colonnettes between.
Next is the ancient Palais de Justice, adjoining the Hôtel de Ville. It
has a battery of mullioned twin windows of narrow aperture, and is in
perfect keeping with the mediæval trinity of which it is a part.
The cathedral of St. Jean is another of Perpignan's historical
monuments, but it is far from lovely at first glance, an atrocious
façade having been added by some "restorer" in recent times with more
suitable ideas for building fortresses than churches.
The tower of the cathedral is modern and, taken as a whole, is
undeniably effective with its iron cage and bell-rack. The original
tower fell two centuries ago during an extra violent blow of the
_tramontane_.
Passing centuries have changed Perpignan but little, and aside from the
boulevards and malls the streets are narrow and tortuous and almost
devoid of sidewalks. There are innumerable little bijou houses of Gothic
or Renaissance times, and in one narrow street, called quaintly Main de
Fer, one sees a real, unspoiled bit of the sixteenth century. One
curious house, now occupied by the Cercle de l'Union, dates from 1508,
and was erected for one Sancho or Xanxo. Its interior, so far as its
entrance hall and stairway are concerned, remains as it was when first
built.
The Rue Père Pigne has a legend connected with it which is worth
recounting. The Père Pigne, or Pigna, as his name was in Catalan-Spanish
days, was a cattle-herder in the upper valley of the Tet, beside the
village of Llagone. Weary of his lonely life he whispered to the rocks
and rills his desire for a less rude calling elsewhere, and the river
took him up in its arms and washed him incontinently down on to the
lowland plain of Roussillon, and, by some occult means or other,
suggested to the old man that his mission in life was to found there a
fertile, prosperous city. Thus Perpignan came to be founded.
There may be doubts as to the authenticity of the story, but there was
enough of reality attached to it to have led the city fathers to name a
street after the hero of the adventure.
Since the demolishment of its walls Perpignan has lost much of its
mediæval character, but nothing can take away the life and gaiety of its
streets and boulevards, its shops, its hotels and cafés. Perpignan comes
very near being the liveliest little capital of old France existing
under the modern republic of to-day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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