Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque ProvincesMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
Castles and Chateaux of Old Navarre and the Basque Provinces
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Castles -- France; Pyrenees -- Description and travel
Céret's bridge has been attributed to the Romans, and to the devil. The
round loophole, on either side of the great arch, is supposed to have
been a malicious afterthought of the engineers who built the bridge to
head off the evil influences of the devil who set them to the task. The
application is difficult to follow, and the legend might as well apply
to the eyes painted on the bows of a Chinese junk. As a matter of record
the bridge was built in 1321, by whom will perhaps never be known.
Amélie-les-Bains is ten kilometres higher up in the valley of Tech, and
has become a thermal station of repute, due entirely to the impetus
first given to it by the spouse of France's "Citizen King" in 1840,
whose name it bears.
Bagnères-de-Luchon, or more familiarly Luchon, is called the queen of
Pyrenean watering-places. If this is so Amélie-les-Bains is certainly
the princess, with its picturesque ring of mountain background, and its
guardian sentinel the Canigou rising immediately in front. It enjoys a
climate the softest in all the Pyrenees, a sky exempt of all the
vicissitudes of the seasons, and a winter without freezing.
Just north of Amélie-les-Bains is the little village of Palada. It sits
halfway up the mountainside, beneath the protection of a once formidable
château, to-day in ruins, its gray green stones crumbling before the
north wind which blows here in the winter months with a severity that
blows knots from their holes,--at least this is the local description of
it, though the writer has never experienced the like. The inhabitants of
the poor little village of Palada got hot-headed in 1871, when Paris was
under the Commune, and had a little affair of their own on the same
order.
The whole valley of the Tech, being a near neighbour of Spain, has that
hybrid French-Spanish aspect which gives a distinctive shade of life and
colour to everything about. The red cap of the Catalan is as often seen
as the blue hat of the Languedoçian.
At Arles-sur-Tech, not for a moment to be confounded with
Arles-en-Provence, is a remarkable series of architectural monuments, as
well as a charming old church which dates back to the twelfth century,
and a Roman sarcophagus which mysteriously fills itself with water, and
performs miracles on the thirtieth of each July. Within the church are
the relics of the Christian martyrs, Abdon and Sennen, brought from
Rome in the ninth century. The charming little mountain town is at once
an historic and a religious shrine.
High up in the valley of the Tech is Prats-de-Mollo, with its guardian
fortress of Lagarde high above on the flank of a hill. This tiny
fortress looks hardly more than a block-house to-day, but in its time it
was ranked as one of the best works of Vauban. To keep it company, one
notes the contrasting ruins of the feudal Château de Peille hard by.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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