Cathedral Cities of FranceMarshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
History
Cathedral Cities of France
Marshall, Herbert, R. W. S.
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
Finally, we find the Girondist party flying from the “Convention” at
Paris and setting up an insurrection in the provinces, making Caen their
headquarters; and one more page from the awful book of the Revolution
shows us Charlotte Corday setting out from Caen, grim, ungirlish, filled
only with her dreadful purpose, down the long, white road to
Paris--which to her meant Marat.
Chapter Seven
SAINT-LÔ AND COUTANCES
In very early days there was in Northern Gaul a little city on a
hill-top, with a river running below, and this city was called Briovira,
after the name of the river Vire. But in Christian times a certain
bishop of Coutances, a native of Briovira, extended his pastoral
protection to his birthplace, and called it by his own name, Laudus, or
Lô, by which it is known to this day, although the bishopstool has no
longer a place there. Saint-Lô does not strike one, either at first
sight or afterwards, as being a cathedral city. The first view, from the
railway, is a very rural one, and from an artist’s point of view the
place is more or less ideal, possessing as it does two important
qualifications of a “paintable” town--it has a river, and it stands on a
hill. Only the outskirts of Saint-Lô lie about the waterside; the real
town is higher up on the steep frowning cliff, and the Rue Torteron
straggles across the bridge and up the hill, and finally, by means of a
steep little alley, leads out into the Place Ferrier, where stands the
Cathedral. Here, too, the Saturday market is held, and then the
hill-top, usually quiet and deserted, blossoms into life, and the Rue
Torteron is all a-clatter with farmers’ carts and the scurry of
_sabots_. The western half of the market-place is known as the “Place
des Beaux-Regards,” and from it, as its name testifies, stretches a wide
view of the river, fields, and wooded hills beyond; here, also, is the
fountain, crowned by Leduc’s graceful bronze peasant-girl, with
water-vessel poised easily over her shoulder.
Saint-Lô was a Huguenot stronghold during the wars of the League, and
the cliff-face still retains a fragment of the old defences, the Tour
Beauregard, an ivy-covered ruin clinging to the rock, which probably
served as a watch-tower in times when the meadows of the Vire were not
so peaceful as they are to-day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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