From the time of Henri IV Chantilly, as we have seen, had been a
favourite pleasure-resort for Royal personages. Louis XV used to combine
excursions thither with his visits to Versailles. The King of Denmark,
the hereditary Prince of Prussia, and Gustavus III, King of Sweden, were
all entertained at the Château; and the latter presented to the Prince
de Condé the magnificent cabinet containing many strange and curious
minerals now at the Musée Condé.
In 1782 the Comte du Nord, afterwards the Emperor Paul of Russia, with
his wife, Dorothea of Wurtemberg, paid a long visit to Chantilly. One
of the Russian ladies-in-waiting, the Baroness Oberkirch, gives the
following description of their stay: "We joined the Prince at eleven
o'clock, which was the dinner-hour. This dinner, which opened the fêtes
of the day--we were a hundred and fifty at table--was splendid, and
quite in accordance with the traditions of this princely house, so
famous for its magnificent hospitality. When we left the dining-hall we
found carriages waiting for us. The Prince and the Duke, his son,
themselves drove us along the avenues, where a thousand surprises were
prepared for us. The trees were hung with flags and decorated with the
Russian colours. After the drive we went to the theatre. They played
_The Friend of the House_, _The Supposed Poet_, and _The
Fifteen-year-old Lover_. The latter piece told the love-story of the Duc
and Duchesse de Bourbon and had been played on the eve of their wedding.
It ended with a fine ballet. On coming out we found the gardens
illuminated and fireworks blazing all round, while the façade of the
Château was decorated with the heraldic bearings of the Emperor and
Empress. Supper was served on the _Isle d'Amour_ and then followed a
ball which was so gay and full of merriment that it seemed to us a quite
exceptional thing, since this is not usually the case amongst princes.
The next morning a hunting-party was arranged, a diversion of which the
Condé princes and princesses are particularly fond. A stag was hunted
for three hours, and when at last he went into the water he was followed
by the whole pack of hounds. The sight was really superb."
A picture representing this famous hunting-party was painted by Le Paon
and presented to the Russian Emperor. It still hangs in one of the
Imperial Palaces in St. Petersburg; but a copy was offered to the Duc
d'Aumale by the Grand Duke Wladimir, which is now in the Musée Condé.
Another day the magnificent stables were visited and dinner was served
in the central hall beneath the cupola. Much admiration was expressed
for the gorgeous hangings which divided this part of the building from
the rest. When the Royal party left the table these hangings were lifted
on both sides, so as to exhibit the two hundred and forty horses stabled
in either wing.
At that time two bronze horses stood beside the great fountain, which
was completed in 1782. But they disappeared during the Revolution.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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