Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
It is to be understood that the terms "collar" and "cuff" are here only
intended to refer to those of linen, lace, or similar material, which
are more or less separate from the rest of the costume. A "collar" is
simply a neck-band, and may be of any material; in the case of Gurth,
"born thrall of Cedric the Saxon," it was of iron, and was the symbol
of his servitude. The term "collar" is also applied to certain articles
of jewellery--
"The collar of some order, which our King
Hath newly founded, all for thee, my soul."
TENNYSON, _Last Tournament_.
Collars are of a comparatively modern origin, although some form of
covering for the neck has been employed from a very early period. The
Romans made use of chin-cloths for the protection of the neck and
throat, which were termed "focalia." These were worn by public orators,
who from professional considerations were fearful of taking cold, and
who, doubtless, contributed in no small degree to render the fashion
of chin-cloths general. Some, says a writer on Roman antiquities (the
Rev. Father Adam), made use of a handkerchief (sudarium) for this
purpose. This is probably the origin of the cravat, which is in many
countries called neck-handkerchief.
[Illustration: HENRIETTA, MARQUISE D'ENTRAGUES.
_Engraved by Wierix._]
The thorax, of otter's skin, worn by Charlemagne during the colder
months, has already been referred to in a previous chat.
The wimple, also, which was a development of the Roman chin-cloth, and
which was worn for such an extended period from the Norman Conquest
onwards, is noticed under head-coverings.
During the greater part of the period of York and Lancaster necks were
worn bare, the "camise" appearing at the V-shaped junction of the
bodice, the neck being ornamented with jewellery.
Shirt-bands were originally connected with neck-ruffs, and the ornament
adjoined to the wristband of the shirt was known by the denomination of
"ruffle," and was originally called the hand-ruff. In the inventory of
apparel belonging to Henry VIII. occurs the item, "4 shirts with bands
of silver and ruffles to the same, whereof one is perled with gold."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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