Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
Towards the latter part of the reign of Charles I. both ruff and whisk
give place to the falling band, which was worn both plain and laced. It
had, indeed, appeared earlier, even in the latter years of Elizabeth,
but was not in general use until the time of Charles. The trouble
occasioned by the ruff and whisk appears to have been a factor of their
downfall. A character in the "Malecontent," 1604, exclaims: "There is
such a deal of pinning these ruffles when a fine cleane _fall_ is worth
all."
The cravat, or neckcloth, which succeeded the ruff and band, did not
come into general use until the latter part of the reign of the Merry
Monarch; indeed, some similar form of neck covering became a necessity,
on account of the monstrous size of the periwigs. It formed a large
bow at the chin, with the ends richly laced. There was a variety of
the neckcloth which was twisted like a corkscrew, the ends being drawn
through a ring. This was called a "Steinkirk," from the circumstance
of the French officers at the battle of that name in 1692, who could
not find time to arrange their cravats, and adopted the readier means
of twisting them in a knot. The laced ends of the cravat afterwards
increased in size, and were drawn through the button-hole of the
waistcoat.
"One of the knots of his tye hanging down his left shoulder, and his
fringed cravat nicely twisted down his breast, and thrust through his
gold button-hole, which looked exactly like my little Barbet's head in
his gold collar" (David Garrick, "Bon Ton; or, High Life Below Stairs,"
1775).
From a singular little pocket-manual upon the art of tying the cravat,
by H. Le Blanc, Esq., published in 1828, it would appear that there
are no less than two-and-thirty different styles of tying the cravat.
These are demonstrated in sixteen lessons, with illustrations, together
with portrait of the author, figured, as a matter of course, in an
irreproachable cravat.
"When a man of rank makes his _entrée_ into a circle distinguished
for taste and elegance, and the usual compliments have passed on both
sides, he will discover that his coat will attract only a slight degree
of attention, but that the most critical and scrutinising examination
will be made on the _set_ of his Cravat. Should this unfortunately not
be correctly and elegantly put on--no further notice will be taken
of him; whether his coat be of the reigning fashion or not will be
unnoticed by the assembly--all eyes will be occupied in examining the
folds of the fatal Cravat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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