About half a mile from Tossil’s Barton (the farmhouse where we lived)
there is a valley, or rather a vast ravine, of a very uncommon
formation. A narrow winding rocky combe, where slabs, and tors, and
boulder stones, seem pasturing on the velvet grass, or looking into the
bright trout-stream, which leaps down a flight of steps without a tree
to shade its flash and foam; this narrow, but glad dingle, as it nears
the sea, bursts suddenly back into a desert gorge, cleaving the heights
that front the Bristol Channel. The mountain sides from right and left,
straight as if struck by rule, steeply converge, like a high-pitched
roof turned upside down; so steep indeed that none can climb them.
Along the deep bottom gleams a silver chord, where the cramped stream
chafes its way, bedded and banked in stone, without a blade of green.
From top to bottom of this huge ravine there is no growth, no rocks, no
cliffs, no place to stay the foot, but all a barren, hard, grey stretch
of shingle, slates, and gliddery stones: as if the ballast of ten
million fleets had been shot in two enormous piles, and were always on
the slip. Looking at it we forget that there is such a thing as life:
the desolation is not painful, because it is so grand. The brief noon
glare of the sun on these Titanic dry walls, where even a lichen dies;
the gaunt desert shade stealing back to its lair in the early afternoon;
the solemn step of evening stooping to her cloak below--I know not which
of these is the most impressive and mournful. No stir of any sort, no
voice of man or beast, no flow of tide, ever comes to visit here; the
little river, after a course of battles, wins no peaceful union with the
sea, but ponds against a shingle bar, and gurgles away in slow
whirlpools. Only a fitful moaning wind draws up and down the melancholy
chasm. The famous "Valley of Rocks," some four miles to the east, seems
to me common-place and tame compared to this grand defile. Yet how many
men I know who would smoke their pipes throughout it!
Thinking so much of this place, I long wished my mother to see it; and
finding her rather stronger one lovely April morning, I persuaded her
forth, embarked on Mrs. Huxtable’s donkey. We went, down a small
tributary glen, towards the head of the great defile. The little glen
was bright, and green, and laughing into bud, and bantering a swift
brook, which could hardly stop to answer, but left the ousels as it
passed to talk at leisure about their nests, and the trout to make those
musical leaps that sound so crisp through the alders. Another stream
meets it among the bushes below, and now they are entitled to the
dignity of a bridge whereon grows the maidenhair fern, and which, with
its rude and pointed arch, looks like an old pack-saddle upon the
stream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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