Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
=Mickledoor Chimney=, in the cliffs of Scafell, is not the easiest, but
the most obvious point at which to attack them. It is conspicuous from
the _Pikes_, and would probably be selected by any experienced stranger
as the most vulnerable point. It was visited about the year 1869 by Mr.
C.W. Dymond, who contributed to 'Prior's Guide' the earliest and best
description of it. He says that, 'leaving _Mickledoor_ Ridge, you pass
the fissure leading to _Broad Stand_, and continue descending steeply
for two minutes, which brings you to a narrow gully in the rock, with a
thread of water trickling down it over moss. This is the _cheminée_ to
be ascended, and there is no special difficulty in it until you are near
the top. Here the gully, of which the 'chimney' forms the lower section,
is effectually blocked for some distance, and the only alternative is to
climb out of it by the rock which forms the right wall, and which is
about 12 ft. high, the lower six vertical and the upper a steep slant.
This, which can only be scaled _à la_ chimney-sweep, is exceedingly
difficult, as is also the gymnastic feat of escaping to _terra firma_
from the narrow shelf on which the shoulder-and-hip work lands you.'
This is very clear and in the main correct, but there is another and
easier exit much lower down called 'the Corner,' and there is a third
exit only a few feet from the mouth of the chimney. All these are on the
right hand, for the opposite bank is not only much higher and much
smoother, but would lead to nothing if it were surmounted. It is not
really necessary to enter the chimney at all, for the edge presented
where the bank cuts the wall bounding the screes is quite assailable,
and just right of it there is a point which may even be called easy;
but two terrible accidents which have occurred at this spot prove the
necessity of care.
Until the extraordinarily dry season of 1893 the moss-grown block at the
very head of the chimney had never been climbed. It was accomplished on
the 12th of September by Mr. W.H. Fowler. By standing on the shoulders
of a tall man he was able to reach a slight hold and to establish
himself on a rough rectangular block forming the floor of a recess big
enough to hold one man. The block above it was holdless, and overhanging
and loose stones were a great nuisance.
=Micklefell.=--The highest mountain in Yorkshire, but except on that
account it possesses no special attraction. The best starting-point is
the High Force Inn in Teesdale, 5 miles from Middleton. By making the
round of the mountain from High Force to Appleby some very fine
rock-scenery may be enjoyed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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