Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - EnglandHaskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
History
Climbing in The British Isles. Vol. 1 - England
Haskett Smith, W. P. (Walter Parry)
Mountaineering -- England; Mountains -- England -- Guidebooks
Miss Koecher (March 31, 1890) was apparently the first lady to ascend.
It was first climbed from the west; the way on the opposite side is
perhaps less severe, but longer and more varied.
The rock is frequently photographed, and an illustrated article on it
appeared in the _Pall Mall Budget_ of June 5, 1890.
=Needle Ridge= is that ridge of the _Napes_ on _Great Gable_ which is
immediately behind the _Napes Needle_. It was discovered in 1884 by the
writer and Mr. Robinson, and ascended by them in a somewhat desultory
fashion; that is to say, they cut in from the east side nearly at the
top of the difficult face which forms its lower extremity, and also
avoided the topmost piece by passing over on to the easy terrace on the
west side of the ridge. The _arête_ was climbed in a strict and
conscientious manner for the first time by the writer in 1886. This was
a descent, and apparently the first strict ascent was made by Messrs.
Slingsby, Hastings Hopkinson, and a brother of the writer.
=North Climb.=--The first to describe this climb on Scafell was Mr.
Seatree, who says:
'From the ridge we traversed a ledge of grass-covered rock [the Rake's
Progress] to the right, until we reached a detached boulder, stepping
upon which we were enabled to get hand-hold of a crevice 6 or 7 ft.
from where we stood. To draw ourselves up so as to get our feet upon
this was the difficulty; there is only one small foot-hold in that
distance, and to have slipped here would have precipitated the climber
many feet below. Having succeeded in gaining this foot-hold, we found
ourselves in a small rectangular recess, with barely room to turn round.
From here it was necessary to draw ourselves carefully over two other
ledges into a small rift in the rocks, and then traverse on our hands
and knees another narrow ledge of about 8 ft. to the left, which brought
us nearly in a line with Mickledoor Ridge. From here all was
comparatively smooth sailing.'
This climb had been made many years before (1869) by Major Ponsonby
Cundill, R.E., who left his stick in the deep crack behind the ledge
which Mr. Seatree traversed on his hands and knees. The stick was found
in 1884 by Mr. Chas. Cookson. This ledge, by the way, should certainly
be walked or at least sidled in an upright attitude, otherwise ungainly
gambollings are necessary when the time comes for stepping off at the
other end. The descent of the _North Climb_ is decidedly difficult,
unless the ascent has been made just previously, and the climb whether
up or down is an excellent test of style.
A couple of yards to the left there is an alternative to the
'rectangular recess,' and it is known as the 'Rift.' It is to be done by
a wild struggle. It was at one time the wetter and harder of the two
ways, but the conditions are now reversed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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