Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home MakingKinne, Helen
Science
Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home Making
Kinne, Helen
Clothing and dress; Sewing
Such a variety of kinds and colors! Some are soft and light, and others
are heavy and stiff. Do they have names just as the cotton materials?
=Can any one tell the names of any of these silks?= Yes, the plain one is
a _taffeta_. It is plain in color; and the weave is plain, the same on
both sides. Sometimes it comes with printed and woven figures. What is
the difference between a woven and a printed design? Here is a piece with
a printed design. It is a _foulard silk_. How does this design differ
from the taffeta with the design? Foulard silk is used for dresses.
Taffeta is also; as well as for linings and for petticoats. A cheap
quality of taffeta does not wear well. It costs from 75 cents to $2.00 a
yard, and is woven 21 inches and wider. Foulards are about 24 inches wide
and can be bought for the same price as the taffetas. Mollie's mother had
a foulard silk dress last summer; so did Grandmother Allen.
Here is a soft crinkling white piece and a dark blue just like it; and
also a black piece. These are called _crêpe de chine_ and are used for
dresses, also; and sometimes for underwear. It is soft and lustrous, and
comes in plain colors and sometimes printed. It costs from 75 cents up
and is woven 22 inches and sometimes wider.
Shall we start another book of materials, and see how many silks we can
learn about?
The piece Barbara Oakes brought is smooth and shiny on the right side.
Does anyone know the name? It is woven in such a way that the filling
thread goes over several threads and under one. Try it on your school
loom. This weave brings most of the filling thread on the surface of the
cloth. The material is called _satin_, and the weave is the satin weave.
Some cottons are woven with the satin weave, and often in table linen
or damask we see the smooth satin weave. Here is a bit of damask table
linen. Let us compare this smooth part with the satin.
[Illustration: _Courtesy of Crompton and Knowles._
FIG. 73.--The Jacquard loom. Notice the cards with punched holes above
it. They affect the pattern. Can you find the cloth which is being woven?]
Satins are used for dresses, linings, trimmings, boxes, and for many
other purposes. They cost $1 to $20 per yard, if very beautiful, and are
woven from 21 to 54 inches wide. Satin is sometimes made of a combination
of linen or cotton, with the silk. It is then less expensive. The woof,
or filling thread, which gives the smooth finish is silk; and it is
that which shows in the finished cloth. This piece of silk, which looks
figured like table linen, only it is made of silk, is called a _brocaded
satin_. This satin is used for dresses and trimmings, and often for
furniture covering and for hangings in beautiful rooms. It is made on a
loom called a Jacquard. Table damask is made on the same kind of loom.
This wonderful loom (Fig. 73) is able to produce very beautiful patterns,
because of the management of the perforated cards above the loom which
affect the pattern.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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