Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home MakingKinne, Helen
Science
Clothing and Health: An Elementary Textbook of Home Making
Kinne, Helen
Clothing and dress; Sewing
=Where is silk manufactured?= We know that very little silk is grown
in the United States; but we also know that our country leads in the
manufacture of silks and uses more raw silk than any other country in the
world. France is next and produces very beautiful materials. Most of our
silk factories are in the East: in New Jersey, Connecticut, New York, and
Pennsylvania. People have tried to raise silkworms here. In 1624 some
Frenchmen living in Virginia tried, but were not very successful. Such
experiments have usually failed because it costs so much for labor. In
1747 the governor of Connecticut wore a coat and stockings made of silk
produced on his place. We use about 85 per cent of the silk manufactured
here. What per cent is, then, exported? In 1876, at the great Centennial
Exhibition in Philadelphia, Marjorie's grandmother saw wonderful exhibits
of silk woven in many colors, and even beautiful woven pictures of silk.
Has any one ever seen a woven picture of silk? Have you ever seen one
tiny fiber of silk as it looks under the microscope? What do you notice?
[Illustration: FIG. 77.--Silk fibers magnified.]
=This is what Marjorie's cousin from Paterson told the girls.= They went
to one room at the mill where there were great bales of silk, weighing
about 100 or 150 pounds, but not quite so heavy or large as a bale of
cotton. When opened there were many hanks in each bale; tied up, five
or ten in a bundle. These hanks were taken first to a man called a
throwster. Silk throwing means soaking the skeins to remove more of the
gum, and winding the silk from the skein to a spool. This is done by
soaking in warm water, drying, and then placing the silk on swifts, or
reels. Have you ever seen a reel for winding? (See Fig. 78.) It holds
the skein of silk. The ends are taken, and the machine unwinds from the
skein and winds the silk on spools. In one skein there are from 75,000
to 200,000 yards of silk. The spools are then placed in a machine which
cleans and twists two of these spool threads together to form one, and
then winds it off on new spools. This twisted silk is called "organzine."
Isn't that a queer name? It means the thread used in a loom for the warp
or strong threads. Why are twisted threads stronger? Try, and see if they
are.
[Illustration: FIG. 78.--Silk winding.]
Silk is a most perfect fiber; and does not have to be prepared as much as
cotton or wool. Sometimes it is twisted a very little for the warp. The
filling thread has a queer name, too. It is called the "tram," and need
not be of so good a quality of silk as the strong warp, nor so tightly
twisted. Cotton spinning is different from silk throwing; but both mean
getting the fibers ready for weaving.
[Illustration: _Courtesy of Cheney Bros._
FIG. 79.--Silk dyeing.]
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