Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th CenturiesTimbs, John
History
Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries
Timbs, John
Clubs -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
"The taverner took me by the sleeve,
'Sir,' saith he, 'will you our wine assay?'
I answered, 'That cannot much me grieve,
A penny can do no more than it may;'
I drank a pint, and for it did pay;
Yet, sore a-hungered from thence I yede,
And, wanting money, I could not speed," etc.
There was no eating at taverns at this time, beyond a crust to relish
the wine; and he who wished to dine before he drank, had to go to the
cook's.
The furnishing of the Boar's Head, in Eastcheap, with sack, in Henry
IV., is an anachronism of Shakspeare's; for the vintners kept neither
sacks, muscadels, malmseys, bastards, alicants, nor any other wines
but white and claret, until 1543. All the other sweet wines before
that time, were sold at the apothecaries' shops for no other use but
for medicine.
Taking it as the picture of a tavern a century later, we see the
alterations which had taken place. The single drawer or taverner of
Lydgate's day is now changed to a troop of waiters, besides the under
skinker, or tapster. Eating was no longer confined to the cook's row,
for we find in Falstaff's bill "a capon 2_s._ 2_d._; sack, two
gallons, 5_s._ 8_d._; anchovies and sack, after supper, 2_s._ 6_d._;
bread, one halfpenny." And there were evidently _different rooms_[27]
for the guests, as Francis[28] bids a brother waiter "Look down in the
Pomgranite;" for which purpose they had windows, or loopholes,
affording a view from the upper to the lower apartments. The custom of
naming the principal rooms in taverns and hotels is usual to the
present day.
Taverns and wine-bibbing had greatly increased in the reign of Edward
VI., when it was enacted by statute that no more than 8_d._ a gallon
should be taken for any French wines, and the consumption limited in
private houses to ten gallons each person yearly; that there should
not be "any more or great number of taverns in London of such tavernes
or wine sellers by retaile, above the number of fouretye tavernes or
wyne sellers," being less than two, upon an average to each parish.
Nor did this number much increase afterwards; for in a return made to
the Vintners' Company, late in Elizabeth's reign, there were only one
hundred and sixty-eight taverns in the whole city and suburbs.
It seems to have been the fashion among old ballad-mongers, street
chroniclers, and journalists, to sing the praises of the taverns in
rough-shod verse, and that lively rhyme which, in our day, is termed
"patter." Here are a few specimens, of various periods.
In a black-letter poem of Queen Elizabeth's reign, entitled _Newes
from Bartholomew Fayre_, there is this curious enumeration:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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