Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th CenturiesTimbs, John
History
Club Life of London, Vol. 2 (of 2): With Anecdotes of the Clubs, Coffee-Houses and Taverns of the Metropolis During the 17th, 18th, and 19th Centuries
Timbs, John
Clubs -- England -- London; Literary landmarks -- England -- London; London (England) -- Social life and customs
darkness, for the candles are never out; and it is like those
countries far in the north, where it is as clear at midnight as at
mid-day. After a long sitting it becomes like a street in a dashing
shower, where the spouts are flushing above, and the conduits running
below, etc. To give you the total reckoning of it, it is the busy
man's recreation, the idle man's business, the melancholy man's
sanctuary, the stranger's welcome, the inns-of-court man's
entertainment, the scholar's kindness, and the citizen's courtesy. It
is the study of sparkling wits, and a cup of comedy their book, whence
we leave them."
The conjunction of vintner and victualler had now become common, and
would require other accommodation than those mentioned by the Bishop,
as is shown in Massinger's _New Way to pay Old Debts_, where Justice
Greedy makes Tapwell's keeping no victuals in his house as an excuse
for pulling down his sign:
"Thou never hadst in thy house to stay men's stomachs,
A piece of Suffolk cheese, or gammon of bacon,
Or any esculent as the learned call it,
For their emolument, but _sheer drink only_.
For which gross fault I here do damn thy licence,
Forbidding thee henceforth to tap or draw;
For instantly I will in mine own person,
Command the constable to pull down thy sign,
And do't before I eat."
And the decayed vinter, who afterwards applies to Wellborn for payment
of his tavern score, answers, on his inquiring who he is:
"A decay'd vintner, Sir;
That might have thriv'd, but that your worship broke me
With trusting you with muscadine and eggs,
And _five-pound suppers_, with your after-drinkings,
When you lodged upon the Bankside."
Dekker tells us, near this time, of regular ordinaries of three kinds:
1st. An ordinary of the longest reckoning, whither most of your
courtly gallants do resort: 2nd. A twelvepenny ordinary, frequented by
the justice of the peace, a young Knight; and a threepenny ordinary,
to which your London usurer, your stale bachelor, and your thrifty
attorney, doth resort. Then Dekker tells us of a custom, especially in
the City, to send presents of wine from one room to another, as a
complimentary mark of friendship. "Inquire," directs he, "what
gallants sup in the next room; and if they be of your acquaintance, do
not, after the City fashion, send them in a pottle of wine and your
name." Then, we read of Master Brook sending to the Castle Inn at
Windsor, a morning draught of sack.
Ned Ward, in the _London Spy_, 1709, describes several famous taverns,
and among them the Rose, anciently, the Rose and Crown, as famous for
good wine. "There was no parting," he says, "without a glass; so we
went into the Rose Tavern in the Poultry, where the wine, according to
its merit, had justly gained a reputation; and there, in a snug room,
warmed with brash and faggot, over a quart of good claret, we laughed
over our night's adventure."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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